Nan Chuu

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Last Vancouver post here. Here is a quick meal at Nan Chuu with Gene and Geoff. This place is a Richmond offshoot of Gyoza King, which remains one of my favorite Vancouver izakaya spots. Nan Chuu is a bit bigger, with a more narrow, long main room, and a similar modern decor. The place was quite crowded, and we had to wait a little bit for a table. I also remember a cute waitress..

kanpachi sashimi - C$18 We saw kanpachi sashimi on special, and decided to bite the bullet even at $18. That is the power that kanpachi has over me, I guess. It had a good texture, but slightly bland.

gyu tan - C$4.95 Nan Chuu also has a bit more robata stuff than Gyoza King. We chose to try the beef tongue. It was really nice, actually. Tender and flavorful. Unfortunately, it wasn't warm enough. Perhaps it was sitting for a minute too long before being brought to us.

pork and chive gyoza - C$3.95 The gyoza is pretty similar to GK's. Very crisp and delicious. It kind of feels more like a Chinese potsticker than Japanese gyoza though. That's not a bad thing; I'd be happy to eat many of these little morsels.

hotate butter yaki - C$6.75 Another special was this scallop and butter concoction. Again, alright, but not too memorable. Definitely not as good as the scallop/mushroom dish at Gyoza King.

mentaiko yakiudon - C$8.5 And finally, spicy cod roe udon. Gyoza King makes the best version I've tried, and I was eager to see if this could match it. It came close, but didn't quite get there. This was definitely better than Manzo, but still didn't have quite the pure buttery richness of the original GK. Maybe they need to put those nori strips... they at least make it look a lot nicer. All in all, I'd rather be eating at Gyoza King. This seems to be happening a lot with Vancouver izakayas. Maybe it'll be simpler to just keep going to GK, Hapa, and Guu. I've got a couple of random SF posts to finish, then it's going to be Australia stuff. As for now - I'm fortunate enough to be going to the French Laundry again for dinner tonight! Thanks Jennifer. You'll probably read about tonight's meal in like... 2 months. :P
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Kintaro

So surprise surprise, I'm a little behind schedule. It turns out I didn't have internet access for my last few days in New Zealand, so I wasn't able to update then. I'm back in San Francisco now though. I'm going to Vancouver briefly for the holidays, then back here to SF for a bit, then back to Boston. I should be able to update pretty much daily for the next couple of months. I have a few more Vancouver/SF posts to wrap up before I get started on my huge Sydney report. kintaro.jpg

This one is gonna be pretty quick. Over the summer I managed to make another visit to Kintaro Ramen (check out my first visit here). The place is still packin' em in from the looks of it. Geoff and I barely got a table before the place filled up completely. A pretty long line soon formed out the door. If we'd gotten there 10 minutes later, we probably would have had to wait another 45 minutes. I guess you could say the place hasn't changed much.

bbq pork shoyu ramen - C$8.75 This time we both got ga-ga-greedy and ordered the ramen with extra bbq pork. And they're not joking around - you get 4 huge pieces instead of 1. Of course, we went with the fat pork and rich soup, and the result was a HUGE bowl of food. It was tough to finish it, but I managed. The bbq pork is really great here... absolutely tender and fatty. 4 pieces might be too much though. I think next time I'm gonna ask if they can give me 2 pieces of fat pork and 2 pieces of lean pork.

gyoza - C$3.25 While the gyoza isn't particularly superb, it's perfectly decent. It's pretty much an automatic order when you're getting ramen anyway. It's about to get really busy around here. Stay tuned...
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Vij's

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Alright guys, I've had my 2 week Arthur Hungry vacation and I'm ready to get started on the big stack of photos I've got sitting here. I'll quickly finish off my remaining summer posts from Vancouver and SF, and the Sydney stuff should begin in less than a week. Next up is a meal at Vij's, a stylish modern Indian restaurant in Vancouver. The place has a first-come first-serve walk-ins only system, and apparently is full every night. We tried to go earlier in my trip at around 7 and there was a 2+ hour wait. I wanted to try it pretty badly, so this time we showed up very early, and got a table during the second round at about 6:30 or so. Let me just say that I'm very much against the no reservation system. I guess the idea is that they want to get their lounge area booming with activity as people wait for their tables. It's a system that I encountered a couple of times in Australia as well. It seems to work for them though - I guess there are plenty of customers willing to wait all night to eat. Personally, I hate waiting, and would rather deal with difficult reservations. I do like seeing these restaurants that have modern takes on different Asian cuisines that are popping up all over the world. You see it a lot with Vietnamese in SF (Slanted Door, Le Colonial), Thai in Sydney (I'll post about a few soon), and of course Japanese all over the place. I expect to see a lot more new restaurants that do modern Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, SE Asian, etc. in the coming years. It will be interesting to see if Chinese food can make a similar evolution, and emerge from its reputation as takeout food. This is a common topic of conversation at my dinner tables... Anyway, back to Vij's. We did have to wait a while, and they have a sitting area/lounge in the back where you can eat some snacks and order drinks. I got their special ginger-lemon drink which was actually quite tasty. And the snacks...

free chaat in the lounge I don't really know anything about chaat, but I do know there is a huge, varying range of Indian snacks and stuff. I unfortunately haven't really tried many. If chaat is always as good as this hot, flaky, doughy little morsel, I look forward to trying a lot more. The only good thing about waiting in the lounge was eating 3-4 of these babies.

sauteed rapini and spinach with paneer and roasted cashews - C$9.5 By the time we got to the table, we knew what we wanted. The menu is divided into apps, veggie mains, and meat mains. With 4 people, we ended up getting 4 apps, 1 veggie, and 2 non-veggies. First to arrive was this spinach/cheese dish. The flavor was milder than it looks. The spinach was actually still in whole pieces, unlike in palak paneer. The cheese is buried under everything else but was nice and crumbly. A decent dish.

quail cakes with celeriac puree - C$10 This dish was great. The cakes held their shape pretty well, but the quail meat was still chunky and tasty. the mint sauce and corn went great. The celeriac puree was refreshing, and balanced out the frying.

naan A round of naan came about now. You actually get a round of it for the apps and a fresh round for the mains. It was thicker and breadier than most naan I've had, but very nicely toasted. And buttery! Great for picking up sauces.

mutton kebabs with Vij's masala curry - C$10.5" Nice, gamey, meaty flavor. The curry wasn't hot but had plenty of spices going on. I'd be keen to try a nice big order of masala curry at next-door Vij's Rangoli, the cheaper, casual portion of the Vij's operation.

striped bass seared in whole spices and curry leaves with sour cream curry - C$10.5 This slightly sour curry was probably my favorite curry of the night. The fish had a nice crispy edge that went well with the sauce.

green beans, cauliflower and new potato curry with ricotta couscous cakes - C$19 For balance's sake, we opted for one of the veggie curries. I much preferred the green beans and cauliflower in this. I didn't feel like we needed the potatoes and couscous cakes, given the naan and rice that came. Too much starchy stuff. The curry, though quite thin, still packed a lot of taste.

duck breast and coconut-green chilli rice pilaf in lime leaf curry - C$23 Of all the dishes, this struck me as the most Western-tasting. The duck was nice and tender. The sauce was more salty than the others, which made it a good accompaniment for rice.

halibut, mussels and baby carrots in tomato, light cream curry with eggplant-potato tikki and raw sugar candied walnuts - C$25 This item sounded the most interesting to me on the menu. To my surprise, it had a lot more stuff than the description listed, such as prawns and extra veggies. The sauce was very thin and had a light, subtle flavor. The whole thing sorta reminded me of a really strange bouillabaisse. All of the seafood was very good - I'd be happy to order it again.

mango khulfee ice cream - C$7 This ice cream was alright. I liked the nutty mango taste, but it was a bit icey and not creamy enough for my taste.

rice pudding - C$7 I think this was an almond flavoured rice pudding, but I can't remember if I got the right nut. This was certainly the better dessert though. Smooth, silky, and slightly sweet. In the end, I thought we had a great meal. I don't know if it was great enough to wait two hours for though. I must admit I know very little about Indian food, so I wouldn't be able to tell you how authentic the stuff is. It was certainly good though, and if you're looking to eat at 5:30 in Vancouver, it would be a good spot to go if you can make it before the crowd hits.
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In transit!

Hey all - sorry for the absence again. I've spent the last week packing, taking an exam, and generally finishing stuff up in Sydney. I'm currently posting from my cousin Kim's office in Christchurch, New Zealand. I'll be heading to Kaikoura to stay with my Uncle Jack and Auntie Betty later tonight, and my dad will be arriving tomorrow. So after 4 short months I've already left Australia. I had an absolute blast during this past semester. I've made some great friends and learned a good bit too. My internship at Filtra was awesome - thanks to everyone there for having me around. As for my schedule now... I'll be spending 10 days here in New Zealand relaxing in beautiful Kaikoura. Hopefully I'll do some cool water stuff like swimming with the dolphins and fishing. On the 18th, I head back to San Francisco for about a week, then to Vancouver for Christmas and the New Year. After that, I'll have another 10 days in San Francisco before I head back to Boston for my final semester. I know, you're all thinking, where are the frickin' Sydney food posts? Well rest assured, they're coming. I'll probably clean up the balance of my summer posts in the next couple of days while I'm in Kaikoura, and then I'll begin an absolute marathon of Sydney posting. No joke - I've got about 40-50 places to post, so starting in about a week, I'll probably be posting every single day for about 2 months. I hope you guys have enough time to read it all! :)
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En

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And so the Japanese barrage continues. My aunt Amelia was kind enough to take Geoff and I out one night. We wanted to go to Vij's, but when we got there the wait was over an hour. We decided to take a rain check on Vij's, and walked down the street to check out En. Luckily, the place was almost totally empty. En's sort of taken the izakaya thing and moved it a little bit upscale - white tablecloths, peaceful zen surrounding, more fusion-type food - and moved prices up accordingly. I actually quite like the space; it's very calm and serene. The menu is divided into a few sections, including light appetizers, sushi, small dishes, medium dishes, and main dishes. We ended up not ordering anything from the list of mains so that we could try more stuff.

"rice crispies" They actually gave us an amuse bouche to start. They described it as their version of a rice crispy - basically, little wedges of deep-fried rice with a bit of soy. Pretty tasty, and a nice surprise.

soft shell crab tempura salad with spring mix, vegetables, daikon, olive oil, sesame seed, rice vinegar - C$13.5 This came off the medium dishes list. The crab itself was pretty good, with a nice hot crisp to it. The salad was a bit ordinary; they put a little too much dressing for my taste.

lightly pan-fried halibut cheeks placed on a layer of dungeness crab meat served with a soy/dashi sauce capped with fresh herbs and grated lemon skin - C$14.25 This was one of the better dishes of the night. The fish and the crab went surprisingly well together - they had strangely similar texture but quite different flavors. The blackcurrants (or are those called boysenberries? I always get them confused) were pretty sour and a bit out of place.

assorted sushi plate - C$29 We were a bit fooled by what we would get on the sushi plate - it just lists red ahi tuna nigiri, salmon nigiri, hamachi nigiri, unagi nigiri, amaebi nigiri, ikura nigiri, uni nigiri, and california roll. We'd asked how many pieces there were, and our waitress said 15 or so, so we said why not. It turns out we got 8 pieces of california roll and 1 each of sushi, which was a bit disappointing. The sushi was definitely good, but you can find better deals in Vancouver.

asparagus gyoza - $9.5 This was definitely the star of the night. We were quite curious to see what asparagus gyoza would be like, and this was cooler than I could have imagined. The asparaguses (asparagi?) were wrapped whole! The skin was nice and crispy. A great combination.

lightly sauteed sliced giant scallop placed on top of dungeness crab meat covered with a rich tamari soy reduction served with risotto - C$16 Another one off the medium dish list. This was the only thing Geoff had tried before so he knew it would be good. The scallops were tender, the risotto was rich and creamy, and the sauce was just beautiful. Now that I think about it, I don't think I've ever had scallops with risotto before. You'd think it would be more common than it is...

matcha cheesecake Sorry, didn't take the price down on this one. Geoff had also tried this dessert before and was eager to get it again. It was deliciously moist and rich, though perhaps just a touch sweet. I'd get it again in a heartbeat though. So overall the meal was pretty good, but the prices are a definite notch above the many Vancouver izakayas out there. The setting is admittedly a bit more upscale, but I don't know if it's worth it. Auntie Amelia seemed to think money would be better spent at other places...
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Manzo

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One late night, Geoff and I were, as usual, looking for some grub. We wanted to go to Gyoza King or Hapa, but when we arrived at both they were closed. We tried the Guu next door, which was still open, but weren't taking any new seatings. Thwarted, we drove over to Richmond. We ended up trying Manzo, a Vancouver-style izakaya that happens to be open pretty late. Geoff hadn't tried it in forever, so we gave it a shot. The place was pretty empty late at night, and had the typical izakaya decor - lots of black wood. The menu has a lot of the normal izakaya stuff, but also a fairly strong focus on yakitori and other skewered bbq items - I guess that's why it's open late.

cheese chikuwa age - C$4.95 We started off with this cheese chikuwa age, which is a sort of fishcake-like thing stuffed with cheese and deep fried. A weird combo, but it was actually pretty tasty. The cheese was stretchy like mozzarella. It was also about 8 trillion degrees, and I came pretty close to burning my whole mouth on the first bite. Luckily, I survived...

kawa - C$3 Next came probably our most anticipated dish, kawa. Essentially, fried chicken skin on a skewer. This stuff was excellent - crispy and crackly, with a nice saltiness. My dad woulda liked this.

beef with enoki mushrooms - C$4.95 There was some other thing we wanted to order that they had run out of, and we substituted it with this instead - beef wrapped around enoki mushrooms. I love enoki mushrooms and this is a great combo. It would have been nice if they took had taken it off the fire a few seconds earlier though.

gyoza - C$3.95 The gyoza was average. I can't decide if I like it when they don't seal the ends. Some of the best gyoza I"ve had in Japan was done this way. On these, it felt like I was losing valuable juices that were dripping. I guess it all depends on the filling.

mentaiko yaki udon - C$8.95 We saw mentaiko udon on the menu, and for comparison's sake we had to try it. All around, it was clearly worse than the Gyoza King version. The noodles were a bit limp and overcooked, and the sauce was more watered down and bland. It didn't have the wonderful butteriness of GK's version, and it wasn't nearly as pretty either. It was still good though - I guess mentaiko udon is sort of hard to screw up. I wouldn't order this here again though.

bbq pork - C$4.5 This bbq pork was very good, and quite different than what the term refers to in Chinese context, as you can see. The meat was juicy, with a slight porky chewiness to the texture, and a strong flavor. Definitely a good value, too.

onigiri with eel - $3.9 The menu had a small section of different onigiri (rice balls). This one had some unagi in the middle along with some unagi sauce. As much as I love onigiri, I didn't think this was very good - it didn't have the right balance of crispy to hard on the outside and soft on the inside. We were still pretty satisfied with the meal. It's certainly a good option after most of the other places have closed, and you can have a really good meal if you pick right from the menu. If I go again, I'll probably lean very heavily on the bbq stuff, which clearly stood out during our meal. There was a big list of different items, and you could stuff yourself on a variety of bbq alone.
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Okada Sushi

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Sorry 'bout the week of inactivity - had a lot going on at work and a paper due. Back to the Vancouver eats. So for some reason, God didn't want me to go to Ajisai this summer. During my two week stay, we tried to go three times, only to fail utterly. Once it was closed, the second time we got there too late for lunch, and the third time they actually closed on the day we were there for a week. Until the day I was leaving. Just my luck, right? So Geoff and I finally resorted to getting a sushi lunch somewhere else. We decided on Okada Sushi, which has gotten some good reviews online. It's actually located right in downtown Vancouver, hidden away up some stairs. The decor is pretty typical, with the standard Japanese restaurant look. The staff seemed to be mixed between Japanese and Chinese, if I remember correctly. The place is famous for its live lobster and crab offerings during dinner, but kept it simple with some sushi at the counter.

unagi roll - C$4.5 This unagi roll was pretty much standard. Don't remember too much about it, so it must have just been par for the course.

negitoro (C$3.75), chopped scallop (C$2), uni (C$3-4 I think), salmon (C$1.65) Those prices are per order, and quite a steal. The negitoro was generous and tasty. Scallop was light and not too heavily mayo-d, and uni was good but not great. The salmon was pretty blah, but I don't like salmon all that much. I'm actually not sure why we ordered it...

toro (C$2), tamago ($1.25) The absolute steal on the menu though was the toro nigiri. At $2 a pop, these came in below hirame, unagi, ikura, hamachi, tai, RED TUNA, and a score of others. We thus decided the best idea was to order a lot of toro - 4 pieces each in the end. And the reason it's so cheap is that it's albacore toro, which Vancouver seems to have plenty of. It's not quite as good as it's red-fleshed cousin, but it's still yummy. Very soft, buttery, and fatty. The tamago was light and fluffy. I must say I was pretty happy with Okada. I've had better sushi before, but the prices are just so good here. The rice had a good temperature, texture, and flavor. Quality and execution, while not out of this world, were still at a high level. I can't stress enough how good of a deal the toro was. If I go back, I'll probably just ask them to make me a toro don and be done with it.
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Shiru-Bay Chopstick Cafe

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It seems that every time I go to Vancouver, there's a new crop of small plate Japanese izakaya-style places to try. The competition in this category is definitely fierce. After failing to get in to a few other places one night over the summer, Geoff and I ended up trying Shiru-Bay Chopstick Cafe in Yaletown. Walking up to the joint I couldn't help but laugh - the picture may be too small to see everything, but their sign is the most buzzworded sign for a restaurant I think I've ever seen. In its entirety, it says: 'Shiru-Bay Chopstick Cafe, izakaya-ism, Japanese Fusion Gourmet Bistro Tapas-Bar, Flavour of Tokyo'. Now there's a mouthful of description... I think they have every possible base covered. The gimmick alarm went off, but we pressed on. The room is sleek and modern, with plenty of black minimalism. We were seated outside but ended up moving inside to the counter, where a line of cooks prepare food in full view. Th menu is comprehensive, covering most of the usual Vancouver izakaya bases. We opted for a $40 11-course omakase (O.MA.KA.SE is how you spell that in hip menu language), and let them do the deciding.

pickled vegetables They started us off with some pickled veggies, which were pretty standard fare. They took a bit to arrive, but we let them off because we did move tables across the whole restaurant.

negitoro and avocado tartare with garlic toast, cheese tofu with honey and almond Next came this pair of cold apps. We weren't really sure how they were counting courses. It seemed like the pickles were supposed to be a freebie and not an actual course, but this may have been 2 courses because it was 2 different items. Either way, we ended up eating 11 plates of things, and stopped trying to keep track after a while. This negitoro was just so-so. Again I'll remind everyone that "negitoro" in Vancouver izakayas (the first of the Big Three izakaya dishes that every place serves) seems to just mean negi-regulartuna, and not actually toro. This one was a bit oversauced in my opinion, and the garlic bread was just so so. (It was funny watching one of the cooks stick like 50 pieces of garlic bread into a little toaster oven at once, cramming them in there in any way possible.) The cheese tofu, weird and boring as it may sound and look, was one of the best dishes of the night - cool, delicate, and creamy.

kobe beef carpaccio with fiji apples, reggiano & truffle oil This dish was another hit. It had a touch too much black pepper on top, but nothing too serious. They skimped a bit on the truffle oil, but for the price I guess I can't complain too much.

hiaburi shime saba Item 2 of the izakaya triumvirate came with a slight twist. They did the usual show, bringing out the saba and blowtorching it, but rather than just serve the fish they took half of it and made it into a salad. And not a bad salad - it had some nice big chunks of onion and a vinegar dressing. The fish tasted the same as it does everywhere else.

hamachi, maguro, amaebi The sashimi was actually really good. The hamachi was a bit lean but had a nice clean flavor. Maguro was typical. The amaebi were actually very sweet; I've started liking this more and more. After the sashimi came, we waited a looooong time.

ebi mayo chilli - deep-fried prawns with 'their' original Chili-mayo sauce, topped with wonton chips & sliced almonds After like 30 agonizing minutes of watching food going to other tables, the last of the Big Three came out. Again, it was just okay at best. The batter was just too thick for me, and it was crunchy and oily rather than crisp and light. And I don't know who invented ebi mayo, but claiming originality for 'Chili-mayo sauce' seems like me saying I rolled the world's first burrito. I guess I could be wrong; maybe they were the first to do it. Either way, there was too much of it on the tempura.

croquette of dungeness crab, corn, caramelized onion & bechamel sauce served in crab shell Now here's something I hadn't seen before. They actually stuffed the crab shell with the filling and fried the whole thing. This was pretty fun to dig into, and the inside was quite tasty as well, with a heavy dose of crab and cream. A definite highlight.

pan roasted lamb chop with cran balsamic miso sauce, bacon garlic mash Nothing much to say about this. The lamb was decently cooked, but completely unspectacular. It felt like this was stuck in here just for the sake of having a meat course. The mashed potatoes were horrible.

yellowtail braised in sweet ginger-soy reduction After the disappointing lamb, the meal rebounded with this fish. The fish was flaky and tender, while the sauce had a slightly sweet but very deep soy flavor, without being too salty. This was probably the best of the hot dishes.

sushi: dragonball, musashi, unagi & cream cheese We knew these sushi things were coming, and we weren't really looking forward to it. We were seated at the counter right in front of the sushi station, and throughout the entire night, we'd been watching a cook make this stuff from an assembly line of old, cold, pre-molded rectangles of rice and the various ingredients. The Dragonball, their signature, has prawn, avocado, salmon roe and tobiko. The Musashi has dungeness crab with mango coulis and tobiko. The unagi & cream cheese is pretty self-explanatory. The ingredients all tasted good enough, but there was a general over-use of mayo and sweetness. And the rice, as expected, was cold and just plain bad.

strawberry ice cream and fruits The dessert course was a bit lazy, but the ice cream was decent enough I guess. In the end, while I felt like the meal was still a good deal for $40, the food was too inconsistent and the service a bit off for me to go back. The people were nice enough, but the timing of the dishes was pretty bad - we'd wait long periods of time, then have 3 come at once, etc. And while there were some great dishes (the cheese tofu, the fish), there were some bad (lamb) and some really bad (sushi) ones. I think the sushi is a real example of a restaurant trying to extend and do too much. I mean, if you're gonna be making sushi using rice like they do here, just don't bother serving sushi at all. The menu has its strengths, but definitely focuses a bit too much on style over substance. With the quality of other izakayas in Vancouver, I don't see much reason to go back to Shiru-Bay. I'd rather eat at Gyoza King, Hapa, or Guu any day.
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West

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I tend to favor Asian restaurants whenever I'm in Vancouver - the standard of Japanese and Chinese cuisine there is just so high. While the city isn't as known for its Western offerings, I will admit that the Western stuff has improved a lot in the past 15 years. There is definitely some very respectable Western-style food being cooked up there. The most famous place is probably Food Network Canada celeb Rob Feenie's Lumi�re, which I still haven't been tried (hopefully this will change by the new year). Another restaurant that is leading the way is West, which won Restaurant of the Year 2005 from Vancouver Magazine. My uncle John was kind enough to take us there for a nice lunch. The restaurant is nicely designed, with lots of open space and a modern look. Racks of wine behind the bar rise to the ceiling, covering the right side of the room. The tables on the other side sit under natural light that floods in through the front window. It was a weekday lunch, so the place wasn't too full. I loved the brightly-lit relaxed environment, but I imagine it's much different during dinner time. The menu is presented in a sort of grid format, divided into soup, salad, risotto, pasta, fish, meat, and sides. Each item is listed by its main ingredient, with a bit more description under it. It looks pretty cool, but it's a bit strange to navigate. I happened to get two things that were specials, so I apologize for the lack of description/price...

beef tartare as served

beef tartare all mixed I started with a simple beef tartare - very tasty and well-executed. The beef was chopped fairly roughly, which I like (though not quite as chunky as Tartare). The dressing had a nice tang to it. The fancy-looking fries were actually quite good - very crispy on the outside and very rich and potato-ey on the inside.

roasted sablefish with lemon gnocchi and cherry tomatoes Hope I'm getting the description right on this - I forgot to write it down. I found the fish to be wonderful. It was extremely tender and flaky, and almost melted in my mouth. The gnocchi were light and pillowy. The tomato sauce, though, was just too sweet. I found myself trying not to get too much on the fish, as the sweetness became overpowering. Still a very good dish though.

white chocolate raspberry bars, chocolates filled with currant? and dipped in nuts It was lunch and we weren't feeling actual desserts, but West gave us these freebies at the end. Again, I'm blanking a bit on the descriptions. I remember the chocolate/raspberry thing to be very cold, almost like an ice cream treat, and very delicious at that. I don't remember as much about the other one, which probably means it wasn't as great. I must say though that I was quite impressed with this meal. Throw in the fact that at lunch the apps all range from around C$10-C$16 and mains from C$18-C$21, with one topping out at C$25, it's tough to complain. The value is certainly very good. I would be keen to try dinner here, which is a bit more expensive but probably a bit more fancy too.
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Fortune Garden

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Seems like it's been a while since I've posted about any Chinese food. One of my regular Vancouver stops is Fortune Garden. It's one of our go-to spots for a big family dinner, and apparently the family likes to go when I'm around because people know I love Peking duck. I must admit that this is true, and Fortune Garden does a pretty mean Peking duck. I only took a few pictures, but here you go. Sorry for the lack of description and prices - I never have any idea what stuff is called in English...

fresh prawns Nothing like some big, Chinese-style prawns. There is a lot of effort involved with the shell removal, but the meat inside is sooo worth it. The sauce, drenched in prawn flavor, is delicious... I'd happily soak it up with baguette if I had some!

Peking duck

pancakes The reason for our visit: crispy, tasty, duck skin. Fortune Garden's version is for the most part skin-only, which makes it oily and fatty to some, but delicious to me. The chewy, starchy pancakes help to balance it out. I love the pancakes here - they have a nice, almost doughy texture to them that pairs perfectly with the duck.

beef with sweet sauce Another dish we've been getting a lot is this stir-fried beef with a slightly sweet sauce. The beef is tender, and the sauce is again very dippable. Again I apologize for not photographing everything. I always feel bad taking pictures when we're out with the whole family... I have to make a hungry table of 12 wait for me. Anyway, I've got another 5 or so Vancouver posts, including a usual onslaught of Japanese. Stay tuned!
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Pajo's at the Wharf

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So over the summer I did manage to spend 10 days in Vancouver. My cousin Karen got married, and I was able to get up there for some time before I left for Sydney. As usual, my cousin Geoff was ready to head around to new spots as well as old favorites. One of the first places on the list was Pajo's, a fish and chips place in Steveston. SaabKen over at VanEats recommendeded the place when I posted about Matt Murphy's in Boston, and Geoff was keen to try it as he had heard good things too. Steveston is actually quite a bit of a drive from Vancouver proper... a good hour if I recall correctly. That's probably the longest I can remember driving for chow in Van. It's in a little area called, funny enough, Fisherman's Wharf - a far more modest place than our famous one in SF, but with a good number of restaurants and shops. Pajo's literally sits right on the wharf - it's actually on a little floating wooden dock thing, on top of the water. I wonder how they power those deep fryers...

small halibut and chips - C$7.79 The fish and chips come in these cute cardboard cones. The nearby picnic tables have holes fitted specifically for us with the cones, so you can just put your meal into the table and eat from it with ease. The fish was very hot, crispy, and extremely flaky. It didn't suffer the soggy aftermath of being completely wrapped in newspaper and fully exposed to steam, which would be my only complaint about Matt Murphy's. This halibut was extremely tasty, but I do admit it got a bit on the greasy side after a while. The chips were excellent - thickly cut but still extremely crisp on the outside and not too heavy or dry on the inside. The tartar sauce was okay, but not as sublime as Matt Murphy's. According to Geoff, this tasted a little bit better than Mr. Pickwick's, the other place that SaabKen mentioned, but Mr. Pickwick's is a LOT closer to my usual Vancouver location. So I guess if you happen to be in Steveston, be sure to check this place out. Perhaps next time I'm in Van I'll try Mr. Pickwick's...
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Myth

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One place that I wanted to make a return trip to was Myth. I was pretty happy with it my first time there, back before it got written up in the Chron. It's become really hot now, and its popularity was evidenced by the packed house on my second trip there (this time with my mom). I still think it's one of the coolest dining rooms in the city - very relaxed, modern, and open. I guess the question is whether Myth can keep its standards high when it's drawing huge crowds every night...

seared scallops with chanterelle mushrooms, corn and potato puree - $14 One thing I really like about the place is that all the pastas and seafood dishes are offered as apps or mains. This versatility allows you to mess around a bit with what you feel like eating on any given night. I got these scallops as an app, and I was surprised by the generous portion. The scallops were beautifully seared and caramelized, and the sweet corn was delicious. The potato puree was like a mini version of the amazingingly rich potato purees I had at Chez Bru and Le Cinq in France.

garganelli pasta with foie gras cream, maitake mushrooms and marsala - $14 Going in, I kept trying to convince myself to try something else on the menu. I failed. I couldn't resist getting the garganelli again... I just loved it so much last time. On this trip, I had to get it as a main. This version was slightly modified, with mushrooms instead of pomegranate. I'm sad to report though that this wasn't quite as good as the first time. The sauce wasn't as rich, and I felt like the foie gras/marsala ration leaned a bit more toward marsala than the first trip. I also preferred the pomegranate - a much more interesting and effective flavor than the mushrooms. It was still pretty good, but not something I'd immediately order again.

peaches and cream: lemon verbena infused panna cotta and peach croustada - $8 Lemon verbena popped up again and I had to get it. The panna cotta was pretty cold (you can see the condensation!) and very refreshing. It was a great compliment to the warm tart. So my second trip to Myth was quite good. I was a little disappointed that the garganelli wasn't as good as the first time, but the scallops were great. Maybe I'll make a trip out there again in the summer of 2006 and see how things are going. I wonder how long it'll stay hot in the SF restaurant scene...
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Le Soleil

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Here's a pretty modest follow-up to my French Laundry meal - a quick lunch with my mom at Le Soleil. I hadn't been in a while, but Le Soleil has always been a pretty solid Vietnamese place at the beginning of Clement. I was surprised to discover on this visit that they've redecorated, with a bunch of new, hipper furniture. It actually looks kinda cool in there now. The menu has pretty standard Vietnamese fare.

combo lunch plate - soup, imperial roll, salad, and bbq pork chop with rice - $8.30 At lunch they have this special combo plate that comes with your choice of the pork chop I got or five spice chicken. Everything was pretty tasty, and the portion is quite large. The soup was a bit on the sweet side which surprised me; I was hoping it'd be more spicy. The pork was tender with a nice char to it. The roll was nice. Basically good stuff all around but nothing new.
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The French Laundry

Working full days with a 1.5 hour commute sure has wreaked havoc on my free time. Posts like this one seem a daunting task when I get home at 7PM and want to go to bed at like 10 or 11. But do not fret, I will do my best to catch up on my huge backlog of photos. I didn't realize it but the site has just entered its third year as of about a week or two ago. I never thought I'd still be going now when I first decided to start the site during my trip to Hokkaido in 2003, but here I am. The France posts are probably celebration enough, but at Arthur Hungry the fun never stops, so here comes another treat!


frenchlaundry.jpg Yep, the French Laundry. My mom says that goodness comes in bunches, and so while I spend most of the year eating cheapo college food in Boston, I got to go on an absolute eating frenzy for about a month, with 20 Michelin stars in 10 days capped off by a trip to America's top restaurant just a few days after I returned from France. I guess the French Laundry in Yountville doesn't really need much of an introduction. It's become such an icon in the US, and has spawned an empire for Thomas Keller. Keller is a celebrity all his own, and with the success of Per Se in New York his profile seems to keep on growing. With my magnificent French meals still fresh in my memory, I was in good position to compare the best of what America has to offer with the best in Paris. It'd been years since I'd gone to French Laundry. I'd been twice, both time when I was quite a bit younger. My first trip there about 10 years ago, which was probably not more than a year or two after the place opened, was one of my first exposures to real fine dining. I went again a few years later, but sadly didn't return for a long time. In the time since, it became the most famous restaurant in the country, a legendary destination that people all over the US planned trips to California around. Because Auntie Winifred and Uncle Mack were visiting, my mom thought we should go, and managed to book us in for a lunch (fortunately the food doesn't change for lunch). Lucky for me, I was in town and invited along. The drive was actually a lot shorter than I remember it. Then again, I was too young to operate a motor vehicle last time. The setting was instantly familiar. A simple, modest building (just a little house, really) stands on a quaint, unassuming Yountville block. You'd have no idea world-class food was being eaten inside. You enter through a litle front courtyard area that is quiet and serene. Inside, the decor is toned down and homey, but with a very serious vibe. Everyone inside knows how hard it was to get their table, and you can tell everyone is expecting the experience of a lifetime. The restaurant is divided into two floors with several adjoining rooms. We sat in the very center of a room with maybe 7 tables. I was worried that my pictures would bother some of our neighbors, but it didn't turn out to be a problem... The restaurant offers 3 different menus: a seasonal 7 course menu, a 9 course Chef's Tasting, and a 9 course Vegetable Tasting. All start at $175 a head, with optional supplements. Me, being the glutton and spoiled brat that I am, got the most expensive thing possible, the Chef's Tasting with all possible pricey options. It capped out at a whopping $280, but even my mom didn't discourage me. I mean, when am I gonna make it out to the French Laundry again?

gruy�re cheese goug�res Shortly after sitting down we were brought these cheese goug�res - essentially fancy cheese puffs. They were very buttery and just delicious! I kinda wish I could have had more than one.

cornet of salmon tartare This amuse has become pretty much world-famous, and for good reason. The finely chopped tartare demonstrates all the wonderful flavors and complexities of raw fish, but in a decidedly Western style. The crunch of the cornet adds a perfect contrast in texture.

cauliflower "panna cotta" with Beau Soleil oyster glaze and Russian Sevruga caviar Another of Keller's many signature dishes, this savory panna cotta is an appetizer in its most Platonic form. The creamy cauliflower mixed with the salty caviar is perfect, and really makes you want to eat more. I was also immediately reminded of the caviar dish I had at Guy Savoy - the combination of creaminess with caviar was strikingly similar.

"peach melba" - poached moulard duck "foie gras au torchon", Masamoto Family Farm peach jelly, pickled white peaches, marinated red onion, "melba toast" and crisped Carolina rice - $25 This foie gras course was the first option, and added $25 to the price. If you haven't heard or noticed, Keller is pretty notorious for his use of " marks all over his menus, and this description shows that in full effect. I don't have much of an opinion about it, though they do sometimes seem pretty randomly placed. Anyway, this dish is supposedly the brainchild of Chef de Cuisine Corey Lee, who does much of the day-to-day leading in the kitchen when Keller is busy doing all that stuff superstar chefs have to do. And as the Aussies here say, good on Chef Lee for it. This is definitely one of the best and most creative foie gras interpretations out there, and an interesting play on a common treat. The foie gras goes wonderfully with the peach jelly (with this dish and the foie gras I had at Isa, I hereby declare that peaches are my favorite foie gras condiment), while the rice crispies and the unpictured toast add just the right element of crunch. This dish fires on all fronts.

saut�ed fillet of wild Virginia striped bass, forest mushrooms "� la Grecque", wilted mizuna and 50 year old sherry vinegar "gastrique" As I copy this stuff from the menu, I keep flashing back to old English classes that told me to keep those commas inside the quotations, but oh well. I'm just the messenger. This was a smooth, silky piece of fish, and the accompanying veggies (mizuna is apparently a Japanese mustard green) were like a nice little warm salad. Good stuff.

Maine lobster tail "cuite sous vide", caramelized fennel bulb, marinated toybox tomatoes and "nage de fenouille" So after hearing and reading all the hype about sous vide, and Rubee's explanation of the Le Meurice perfect beef mystery, I'm always on the lookout for anything sous vide now. This tail wasn't anything new, but I must say it was one excellent piece of lobster - perfectly-cooked and full of texture. The fennel flavor was light and subtle but did just enough to balance the butter, and the veggies were delicious.

slow braised Devil's Gulch Ranch "�paule de lapin", glazed Tokyo turnips, Weiser Farm mulberries and griddled "Monte Cristo sandwich" I was most intrigued by this course when I read the description. I remember thinking to myself... do rabbits even have shoulders? They must be small! It turns out they do have shoulders, and they're big enough for more than one bite. The meat was very soft and tender, contrasted by the glazed and slightly crisp skin. The best part of the plate though was the sandwich, which was like a grilled ham and cheese, but egg-battered like French toast. Yummy.

herb roasted sirloin of Snake River Farm platinum grade "Wagyu", yukon gold potato "mille-feuille", sweet carrots "Vichy", crispy bone marrow, "boule d'�pinards" and "sauce Bordelaise" - $80 There was a beautiful-looking, supplement-free lamb dish that was the other option on the menu, but I really am a glutton and just could not say no to this wagyu. It's frickin' platinum grade, whatever that means! And talk about quotation mark overload! (Seriously, is it really necessary to quote mark ball of spinach?) Anyway, I wanted to see what Keller could do with wagyu beef. I was not disappointed. You can see the marbling and the perfect doneness in the picture, with just a dash of nice salt and pepper. This was a sirloin but still wonderfully fat and delicious, not to mention quite different than the Kobe beef I've had in Japan. This Western-style steak used the ingredient perfectly, exposing all of its marbled goodness. Worth noting are the delicious potatoes, and the deep-fried piece of bone marrow. Yeah, you didn't read that wrong. The little brown thing sitting on top of the rectangular potatoes is a straight up fried piece of marrow, and one of the most rich and oily things I've ever eaten. Even I, lover of all things greasy, had trouble taking it down. It was interesting, but not that great beyond the novelty. Still, this dish was just sublime.

"Meadow Creek Grayson", Jacobsen's Farm Green Gage plums, toasted Marcona almonds and port wine reduction One difference from the fine restaurants in France is the lack of a cheese cart. Instead, they bring you an actual prepared cheese course. I think as a cheese novice I like this way better - I don't have to pick stuff by my own uneducated self, and there's someone who knows what they're doing putting it all together. The cheese and plums were good, but the almonds stole the show. They were the crunchiest, tastiest almonds ever, and I almost killed myself when I dropped one of my three on the ground and couldn't find it.

mango sorbet, "yuzu scented g�noise", goma "nougatine" and black sesame "coulis" This was an interesting dish to say the least, and a most unusual mix of stuff. The nougatine was the candy-like remains of crushed, hardened nougat that added a crunch into every bite of sorbet/cake. I'd say I enjoyed this course the least overall though - I felt like the sorbet was too rich and everything was too sweet, especially for the so-called palate cleanser.

"tentation au chocolat noisette et lait", milk chocolate "cr�meux", hazelnut "streusel" with Madagascar vanilla ice cream and sweetened salty hazelnuts Luckily dessert bounced back with immense success. I absolutely love all things chocolatey and hazlenutty, and let me just say that despite all the fancy description, this was basically essence of chocolate and hazelnut in its greatest form, with some ice cream thrown in to balance things out. Creamy, crunchy, a bit sweet... simply great!

currant panna cotta Things were winding down now. This currant panna cotta was nice, if a bit on the yogurty side for my taste.

mignardises We were presented with this beautiful tower of cookies and treats. We were too full to really eat any of them. Actually, I think I'm the only person that had any. Luckily, they gave us a box to bring them home in, and I enjoyed a few in the following days.

almond macaroons I'm almost certain these macaroons were almond flavored, but for some reason I keep doubting myself. Either way, I was barely able to eat one because I was so full already. I remember it being quite comparable to the billions of macaroons I tried in France.

hazelnut and tea chocolates Finally, we were brought a beautiful tray lined with 5 or 6 different rows of chocolates. I chose hazelnut because I love the stuff and the tea (I believe it was earl grey?) because it sounded interesting. The hazelnut one was better (of course!) but the tea one had a very strong and distinct tea flavor. And that's it for my triumphant return to the French Laundry. I must say that despite the fact that I had just come off a string of world-class meals, the French Laundry absolutely impressed me. The food is truly excellent, and can definitely hang with the big boys in France. The service was great - more personal than I remember it, and professional in every way. You also get some American touches... For example, our waiter asked each one of us about allergies as we picked our menu, displaying some Californian sensitivity that would be pretty unimaginable in France. And let's not forget about the fact that there's a Vegetarian menu. I'd say with a decent amount of confidence that the French Laundry probably serves the best vegetarian meal in the world. I would have gladly scraped off each of my mom's dishes had she not picked them all clean herself! It was an excellent meal when all is said and done. I am sure that when (if?) Michelin comes to the Bay Area, FL will be the first with three stars, and deservingly so. I think more and more now that it would get three even if it were in Paris. Mr. Keller, you can use all the wacky quotation marks you want, just keep up the good work!
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Quince

My brief stay in SF happened to coincide with the visit of my mom's friend Winifred and her husband Mack. She's one of my mom's best friends from all the way back when she was a little kid. I hadn't seen them in a long time so it was good to catch up. Of course, my mom was keen to take them to some places to eat in our fine city. quince.jpg

One of the spots we hit was Quince, which I was quite eager to return to after my last meal there. I was itching to get another taste of their pasta, and this time actually go for 2 pastas rather than one pasta and one main. Quince also fit the bill as a hot SF restaurant to take the guests, so off we were. The place was at capacity as usual, so I guess business is still very good.

fritto of sand dabs with lemon verbena mayonnaise - $10 I was intrigued by this sand dab appetizer. I like sand dabs quite a bit and you don't really see them around as much anymore. I was also feeling lemon verbena at the time, because Kirk's mom had picked one of the lemon verbena leaves from her plant and given it to me as I was leaving their place in Santa Rosa. That thing smelled so great that when I saw lemon verbena on the menu I had to have it. The dish was good, with crusty batter and a nice crunch to it. There were actually a couple of slices of battered and fried lemon slices - peel and all. That was a bit strong, almost bitter, and I think one slice of it rather than two would have been enough. The fish was a bit oversalted, and I would have preferred to let the delicious mayo do more of the work.

garganelli with Georgia white shrimp, cream, white wine & basil - $16 Now this dish was exactly what I was looking for at Quince. Fresh, delicious, textured pasta - a simple joy. The sauce was light but flavorful, and the shrimp were beautiful, with a nice fresh bounce to them.

pappardelle with Hoffman Farm chicken - $15 There were a lot of other interesting pastas on the menu, but I kept getting flashbacks of the pappardelle I had last time and I had to get this. The pasta was, again, wonderful. The chicken was tender and the jus had a very strong chicken-stock type of flavor. But like the sand dabs, this too was a bit oversalted. I still gobbled it up, but it's a shame - it would have been better if they'd gone a little easier on the seasoning.

bay leaf ice cream I was pretty full and didn't feel like getting a whole dessert, and when my dad inquired about just getting some ice cream, our waiter said they had some bay leaf ice cream we could get. To be honest, I'm actually not sure if it was bay leaf - it was some kind of unusual herb or something, but I can't remember. The reason is that while the ice cream was quite excellent, it didn't taste much like whatever the flavor was supposed to be. It was very creamy and delicious though. I would say that this meal at Quince wasn't as good as my first. They were definitely too liberal with the salt on both the sand dabs and the pappardelle, and that hurt what were otherwise excellent dishes. I still think Quince is a great place, but it really is a bit too hard to get in. Such is the restaurant scene in SF, I guess...
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Ino Sushi

I'm finally back from my spring break. Boy, was it amazing. I spent 3 days sailing in the Whitsundays Islands, where we visited Whitehaven Beach, probably the most beautiful beach I've ever seen. Then we went up to Cape Tribulation, the world's oldest surviving rainforest. After that, I spent a day scuba diving and snorkeling in the Great Barrier Reef. To finish things off, I went whitewater rafting in the Tully River. After all the fun, I'm back in Sydney now. I had my first day of work today at Filtra Limited. It's a small company that does water filtration technology. It looks like it'll be a good time. My schedule should become pretty regular now, so hopefully I can update a little more consistently. I'm finally done with my France updates, and now I have to get through a big pile of SF and Vancouver meals before I start posting the Sydney stuff.. inosushi.jpg

My first big meal after getting back home was at Ino Sushi. After 10 days of French food, my dad and I were eager to get back into some raw goodness. Ino has become our new favorite spot, and I do not hesitate to say that for straight up no frills sushi, Ino is serving some of the best in the Bay. It doesn't have any of the crazy inventive rolls, but when it comes down to it, I'll take traditional nigiri with a negitoromaki stuck in there over all the new age fancy stuff. Ino isn't cheap, but it's not outrageously expensive either, and I really like the simple, laid-back setting. I forgot to take down the price of this meal, but i'd guess it was a bit less than our last meal there, since we ate a bit less toro (and a bit less overall).

toro A lot of people say you're supposed to start with lighter fish and build up to toro. My dad and I tend to disagree... I guess we're just gluttons and can't stand to wait. We always seem to get toro first. Ino consistently serves delicious, fatty, buttery stuff, and this time was no exception.

kanpachi Last time, the kanpachi was a sleeper hit of the meal, so we decided to get it again. Still delicious, but not quite as heavenly as our last specimen. I'd still happily order this every time, but it lacked that extra something that the kanpachi last time had...

aji Ino had this aji from Japan, and it was wonderful. It had a great texture and bounce to it, with a light fresh flavor.

shishamo maki We happened to notice shishamo on the menu, something I didn't recognize. It's a whole grilled smelt, and we decided to try it in a hand roll. It had a very smoky flavor with a big crunch - a nice change of pace.

mirugai Ino also had some fresh mirugai on special, and my dad was keen to get it. I don't normally enjoy clams, but this was great - light, fresh, and not overly rubbery.

ankimo Ino is famous for his ankimo, and for some reason we didn't try it last time. My dad loves the stuff, but I'm just okay on it. Let me say right now that Ino's ankimo's reputation is absolutely well-deserved, as this ankimo blew any other ankimo I've had out of the water. It seems so cheap to make the simple foie gras comparison, but this stuff really did taste like a beautiful, rich foie gras. I guess you gotta try it to believe it. And at a fraction of the cost, this stuff is a total steal.

uni I've become an absolute lover of uni, and I pretty much have to get some every time I eat sushi. The picture shows how bright and creamy this stuff is. Delicious.

negitoro maki We of course had to get a negitoro maki each. I think Ino was pleased with us this meal cuz he cut each of us a nice, thick piece, and actually put a whole slice into the maki rather than the chopped leftover bits that usually go in. The result was a smooth, buttery roll. My dad and I were really in a bit of a limbo for a while in searching for a favorite sushi bar. In the past year, Ino has cemented its hold on the crown. It's nearby and often not very crowded. The setting is simple and intimate, and the product is absolutely excellent. For those of you that like your sushi the old school way, Ino will not fail you.
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Le Cinq

Well, sorry again guys... I've had a busy week. My shortened classes ended this week and I had 2 finals and 2 papers. The good thing is I'm done now, and I'm about to leave for Spring Break. We're going sailing in the Whitsundays islands, then spending a few days in Cairns and Cape Tribulation. It should be an amazing time. I won't be bringing my laptop though, so hopefully this update will satisfy you guys for now... lecinq.jpg

Our final dinner in France was on a Monday night, and we had booked for Le Cinq, a Michelin three star in the Four Seasons George V Hotel. My dad was hoping to go to Taillevent during our stay, but it just so happens that they closed for summer vacation the very day we got to Paris. Philippe Legendre (isn't that a sweet name?), the chef of Le Cinq, was the chef at Taillevent for a long time, so we'd be getting something similar. Le Cinq's dining room is quite amazing. It was definitely an old style decor, but not nearly as extravagant as Le Meurice's. The room had a modern, elegant feeling despite the fanciness. It's quite a nice place to eat. All seven of us went for this final meal, and because of the size of our group we had to pick a menu in advance. We picked the so-called light tasting menu, as we thought we could use something lighter to wind down after all the crazy meals. The cost was 120 euros for 5 courses, which was actually a relatively good deal considering the quality.

terrine of cepe mushroom with its vinaigrette This was an absolutely wonderful amuse. The terrine was soft, rich, and full of mushrooms, while the vinaigrette was light and refreshing. I would have been happy to eat an entire course of this.

mousse of sole with Osetra caviar Another great dish. The fluffy mousse was well balanced by the saltiness of the caviar. The care put into the dish was obvious from the thinly sliced piece of asparagus. This plate was quite beautiful to look at.

gambas fricassee with artichoke puree, oysters, and lemon sauce Now this was a very interesting dish. The shrimp were perfectly cooked as you'd expect from a 3 star. The oysters, which you can see chopped in the back, added a very unusual twist. The flavor was pretty light and didn't overwhelm the shrimp, and went surprisingly well with the lemon foam.

roasted line-caught cod with green olive harissa This dish was the weakest of the bunch, I thought. Don't get me wrong - it was delicious, but it lacked the extra punch that the other dishes had for me. I think that maybe it just wasn't as good or as cool as the turbot from Guy Savoy, and was thus a bit underwhelming.

squab from the Racan region stuffed with herbs and seasonal vegetables I'll keep this simple: best squab I've ever had in my life. No contest. The meat was tender and delicate. It was actually a pretty simple preparation - basically a squab with jus, but done to absolute perfection. The vegetables were also masterfully cooked, and I cleaned off every last bite.

strawberry puree, peach cream, basil and lime sorbet This pre dessert was a very interesting mix of flavors. Together, they tasted quite good and did their palate-cleaning job rather commendably.

macaroons with fresh cream cheese and lime frosting, hibiscus flavored raspberries This was definitely one of the most beautifully-presented desserts of the trip. It was hard for me to wreck it and start eating. It wasn't all looks either - it was light, not too sweet, and very refreshing. A great dessert all around. I really have to go catch our cab to the airport now. I hope this shortened entry doesn't make it sound like this wasn't an amazing meal - it certainly was. The service was absolutely top-notch, reaching a wonderful balance of friendly and professional (just like Guy Savoy). The food was wonderful. I do hope to go back, as there are a bunch of things on the menu that sounded really interesting. I'm off for Spring Break. I'll see you guys in a week!
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A non-food blog!

I know most of you come here to look at great food, but I also know there's some demand that I start doing a normal life blog. I've decided that I might as well post updates about what I'm doing here in Sydney for the family, so if anyone else is curious, check out my Sydney blog.
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La Maison de la Truffe

I just got back from Melbourne this morning. It was definitely an amazing weekend. The Great Ocean Road is one of the most beautiful drives I've ever been on... I urge anyone to go if they get the chance. maisondelatruffe.jpg

Back to business now. Last day in France - that meant we had two meals left. Dinner had been booked far in advance for Le Cinq, which is coming up next. For lunch, we decided to go to La Maison de la Truffe, a restaurant/food store in nearby Place de la Madeleine. They specialize in, you guessed it, truffles, but they also dabble in other gourmet products like various p�t�s, meats and foie gras. The space is divided into two, with a storefront/deli area in the front, and a full-service restaurant in the back. They serve very basic preparations, emphasizing the basic use of truffles.

salade gourmande - m�che, truffles and foie gras - 38 euros My grandma, quite the foie gras lover, got this hefty little salad here. I thought it looked pretty cool and was very worthy of a photo. 38 euros is definitely steep for a lunch salad; I think we can blame this one pretty squarely on ingredient cost. I had a bite and this was very good. The vinaigrette was very simple and light, and the foie gras serving was extremely generous.

scrambled eggs with truffles I opted for the even more expensive truffle d�gustation, as they called it. It's a 3 course set for 65 euros. For the first course, you get to pick between a truffle salad, these scrambled eggs or an omelette. My dad is always raving about how his favorite preparation of truffles is simply with some good scrambled eggs. These eggs were delicate, and quite runny compared to what we usually get in the States. I'll say I wish there were more truffles in it, but I'll also admit that it had a pretty strong and delicious truffle aroma...

tagliatelle with truffles For the main you get to pick between tagliatelle, chicken, and a chicken sausage if I'm remembering right. My favorite preparation of truffles is served simply with pasta, so I got the tagliatelle. The pasta was well-cooked, and the light cream sauce was just right. It didn't have a strong flavor which allowed the truffles to shine. Again, I wish there were more.

dessert Truffier For dessert, I got this mouthwatering Truffier. It was a little bit between a cake and a mousse, and turned out delicate, fluffy, and just all out awesome. It sat in a puddle of light cr�me anglaise which was a nice foil for the chocolateyness. I could probably eat three of these right now. This lunch was expensive, though quite simple. I was glad to have a truffle stop during our trip though. Now I just have to go to Alba during white truffle season, and my life might just be complete. Gonna hit the sack now - Le Cinq will be coming up shortly!
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La Tour d'Argent

A Sunday in the summer is not the best time to eat in Paris. Not only were most of the nice restaurants closed on Sundays, but the famous Sunday-friendly ones (Pierre Gagnaire) were off for summer vacation. The result is that on Sunday night we didn't really have a place to go. We ate lunch at a Chinese place of all things, just off the Champs Elys�es, which was actually pretty good. It was a needed break for my grandma and grandaunt. For dinner, they decided to stay in and get room service. My dad's friend Johan was flying into Paris for the night and wanted to meet for dinner, so I tagged along. tourdargent.jpg

Our concierge was able to get us into La Tour d'Argent, a Michelin two star, and one of Paris' oldest restaurants. It supposedly opened in 1582 as an inn, and has survived. For most of the 20th century, it was a Michelin three star - one of the early favorites in the guide. It was dubbed France's best restaurant for like 70 years or something. But after the prolonged success, it apparently lost a step as other restaurants evolved and improved. It finally lost a star (in the early-mid 90s, I think?) despite its prestige. Well, nothing was open and my dad was keen to retry the restaurant and see if it has picked up any slack since the wake up call of the lost star. The restaurant sits at the edge of the Seine. You actually take an elevator up a few floors to the main dining room, which has probably the best view of Paris I've seen. It's really amazing up there, and the view alone would cement the place as a surefire special occasion spot. To be honest though, that's all it had going for it. The place was just straight-up gimmicky. It really tried hard to shove its history down your throat. It is famous for its duck, a dish they've been serving for like centuries or something. When you eat dinner there, they give you a little postcard printed with the number of the duck you're eating. I don't even remember what number we got, but I think they served their millionth not too long ago. Anyway, the whole atmosphere just screamed gimmick.

hors d'oeuvres Our dinner began with this tray of hors d'oeuvres: a cheese puff, a pastry I don't remember, a curry-based samosa, and a salmon with cream on toast thing. They were alright, but really didn't taste any more special than hors d'oeuvres you'd get anywhere.

quenelles de brochet Andr� Terrail - 45 euros These pike dumplings were the highlight of the meal. Andr� Terrail is either one of the old owners or chefs or something in the restaurants history. Claude Terrail, the current boss, actually came around to say hi to most of the diners. He's really old now, and it was kind of interesting seeing him sit at a table in the corner and survey the place throughout the night. Anyway, the quenelles were soft and flavorful, with a rich, thick sauce. Then again, I wouldn't say they were notably better than the version at, say, Jeanty at Jack's in SF.

caneton 'Tour d'Argent', part 1: breast with blood sauce - 60 euros The famous caneton 'Tour d'Argent' is a pressed duckling served two ways. The first is this breast with a blood sauce. The little fried things are some kind of puffed potato. This duck was pretty good, but really nothing too special, especially given all the hype. There was just too much sauce, and while not bad it was a bit overwhelming. It certainly didn't score any points in the presentation department.

caneton 'Tour d'Argent', part 2: leg with bearnaise sauce More mediocrity here. Again, nothing wrong with the duck. It was actually a pretty tasty leg, just nothing special. At least the bearnaise was on the side so we could pick how much we wanted. Also, not much presentation and no sides to speak of.

financiers, chocolate/nuts, macaroons, berry tartlets We waited a bit and after a while these pre-desserts came. They didn't offer us cheese, despite the cheese cart we saw rolling around. We didn't mind that much because we didn't really feel like it anyway, but that's a pretty glaring glitch for a two star place. These treats were, again, just average.

peach flamb�e with raspberry brandy, vanilla ice cream, and orange flower cake - 28 euros This is my dad's dessert. I forgot to take a picture of my coffee millefeuille, which was too sweet and pale in comparison to some of the others we had. The peach was a bit of a show. They brought the peach out, poured the brandy on top, and flamb�ed it at the table. It was pretty dark by now so it was quite cool-looking. My dad said it was pretty good, but again nothing special. So in the end, this was definitely one of the worse meals we had on the trip. The restaurant has a myriad of problems to deal with. First, the food isn't stellar. Second, the service was subpar. It was really the only meal where we experienced any remotely snobby attitude from the staff. The thing that annoyed me the most though was the cheesiness and the gimmicks. It's obvious this place is riding on its historic fame, and letting everything else just freeride. I'm not saying it wasn't a good meal, but I'm comparing it to some very high standards here. Based on my admittedly limited experience, I'd say La Tour d'Argent is worthy of at most one star. Baumani�re, Le Meurice, Chez Bru - they're all light years ahead of this place. But damn, does it have a nice view... I'm leaving for Melbourne tonight. I'm taking a 12 hour (!!!) bus ride there overnight and spending the weekend there. Gonna spend Saturday doing a tour of the Great Ocean Road, and the rest of the time just exploring the city. See y'all on Monday for my last France post.
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