Maverick

I once promised to post some brunch pictures from Maverick, one of my SF brunch mainstays. There are two critical factors about brunch at Maverick. First, the food is delicious. Second, they are on OpenTable and take brunch reservations. It's generally pretty easy to get in, and there is rarely a line like other top brunch spots (such as personal favorite Universal Cafe... and I won't even get into places like Dottie's or Mama's). The intersection of convenience and quality make Maverick a standard brunch stop. I guess it's at a slightly higher price point than the packed brunch places, but I'll pay an extra few dollars to avoid the hassle.

 

ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE BENEDICT - grilled andouille sausage, poached eggs, crawfish and jalapeno hollandaise, English muffin, home fries - $15If you're eating brunch at Maverick for the first time, order the andouille benedict. It's been on the menu for years, and it really is their best dish. I'm a sucker for any good eggs benedict, and these eggs are expertly-poached. Maverick then mixes it up by using andouille sausage instead of ham, and throwing some crawfish into the hollandaise. The result is a nice peppery kick that gives the whole plate some life. The potatoes are also excellent here - hot and crispy on the outside, smooth on the inside.

 

MAC 'N CHEESE - $6Their mac 'n cheese is also a winner. Extremely rich and comforting, and also an excellent pair with the hot sauce...

 

YOUK'S HOT SAUCE - free, but it'll cost you $7 to take a bottle homeAnd a fine hot sauce it is. In fact, it might be my favorite American-style hot sauce of all (though admittedly, I've never been to the south). According to the label, the sauce is based mainly on serranos, jalapenos, and cayenne. It's got a wonderful tangy bite that goes perfectly with the potatoes and the mac 'n cheese (or just about anything, really). Love this stuff. Looks like they're actually selling it online now too.

So that's a typical brunch at Maverick. Apologies again for the long long overdue post. If you're awake in the morning on a weekend and looking for some numnums, definitely check out Maverick. You won't have to deal with the 600-person line in front of Dottie's.

RyuGin - 龍吟

We had slotted one meal in Tokyo to explore a restaurant that covered a broader Japanese spectrum, in some kind of tasting course fashion. Usually this means kaiseki, the old-school Japanese parallel of a dégustation, which in some ways is as much about tradition, presentation, and performance as it is about food itself. But during research, Michelin 2-star RyuGin caught my eye, supposedly presenting a modern take on Japanese cuisine that was simply intriguing. Superlative reviews fom Chuck (a very dependable source!) and Exile Kiss vaulted RyuGin to the top of my list.

Located down a side alley in Roppongi, RyuGin has a fairly unassuming entrance that leads down to a small dining room of maybe 20 seats. The theme throughout as indicated by the name is dragons - and the decor feels decidedly Chinese, with blue porcelain lining the tables and calligraphy up on the walls. Service and presentation were delicate, with custom plates, glassware, and cutlery throughout the meal. The feeling in the room is quite unlike any place I have been to, and a stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of Roppongi just a block or two away.

Chuck eloquently described RyuGin as an Eastern response to the Spanish molecular gastronomy movement. Exile Kiss dubbed it modern kaiseki. I'm not sure what I would call the place. It clearly has some Western influences in its contemporary style, but at the same time the cooking still seemed solidly grounded in Japanese technique and ingredients.

Chef Seiji Yamamoto, just 39 years old, opened RyuGin at the end of 2003. He's been quite the jetsetter, having participated in many culinary events throughout Japan and Europe. He's well entrenched in the modern cooking community, and based on the other reviews, has gone through some very experimental phases in his cooking. It seems that right now he's taken a step back and gone to some more traditional techniques. I'd say our meal reflected this - although we saw plenty of modern creativity, there wasn't any truly avant-garde molecular wizardry that I could detect.

The cost for the full dinner tasting at RyuGin was ¥23,100. The meal was impressive, eye-opening, and delicious, so here we go.

 

UNI - mashed fava beans, bamboo shoots, noriI get excited when I see a dish full of ingredients that I love and yet have never tried eating together. This one absolutely delivered, using the creaminess of the uni to bind the textures of mashed fava beans and soothing bamboo shoots. The uni and nori flavored the entire combination with the sea.

 

ABALONE AND KOBASHIRA - potato stems, gingko nuts, ginger sauceAbalone was perfectly tender, contrasting to the very slight chew of the kobashira. The mild, thick ginger sauce provided a delicate accompaniment. The waiter described the long flat green vegetables as potato stems - they had a texture somewhere between cooked onions and pickled bamboo shoots.

 

"CHAWANMUSHI" - sweet corn custard with shrimp geleeYamamoto's reputation for visual flair is not undeserved. At this point we started to wonder if our entire meal would use the same color palette. It was not to be, but we were impressed enough after 3 dishes with completely different ingredients, flavors, and textures. This play on chawanmushi actually contained no eggs, and was served slightly chilled. It had a beautifully delicate, pudding-like texture, and intense corn flavor. Somehow, this reminded me of the cauliflower panna cotta at the French Laundry, with its combination of veggie-flavored custard and briny topping. This was absolutely delicious, and I could have eaten an entire bowl of it.

 

FISH BONE SOUP - hamo, matsutake mushroomAn earthy, umami-laced broth with some meaty conger eel and a gorgeous matsutake. Fish soup for the soul!

 

RYUGIN SASHIMI - hamo with plum sauce, kinmedai, maguro, ise ebiA sashimi course is standard in every RyuGin meal. Fish quality was pristine. Hamo had a fluffier texture than the eel in the soup. Kinmedai (sea bream) was supremely clean in flavor. Maguro had a pure, smooth texture. Ise ebi (spiny lobster) was my favorite - a bouncier, more muscular lobster that still had some of the "gooeyness" of raw shrimp.

 

CRAB - okra, apple vinegar jelly, gingerCrab and apple vinegar provided an interesting, tangy flavor combination. I didn't like the addition of okra, which gave the dish a slimy texture. That's a bit of a personal taste issue though, I think. The Japanese have a place in their hearts for the slimy texture present in the inside of okra, or grated mountain yam (tororo). After years and years of trying, I've been unable to develop an appreciation for it. This was the only dish in the meal I wasn't too crazy about.

 

AKAMUTSU - sea perch crusted with fried rice and black vinegar, baby pea shoots, pickled vegetables with shisoThe meal bounced back in roaring fashion with this cooked fish preparation. The waiter called it sea perch - on Google, it also seems to go by "yellow stripe ruby snapper." In any case, this was by far one of the best fish dishes I've had in a very long time... it was like a twist on the ubiquitous miso-glazed black cod, stepped up 23 notches and pumped full of banned performance-enhancing BALCO steroids. The meat was moist, tender, and pretty much perfect, while the crunchy fried rice crust provided a textural contrast for each bite. Simply delicious.

 

NIKUJAGA - lightly cooked Wagyu beef with fried shoestring potatoes, spring onions, sweet soy, and sesame pasteThis was a spin on nikujaga, which according to Wikipedia is a humble winter stew of sliced beef and potatoes. I've never tried it, but this version seems to be a daring departure, eschewing boiled potatoes for shoestrings, and using beautifully marbled Wagyu. Mixing this whole thing together, the potatoes added crunch to the melt-in-your mouth beef. The beef seemed to be lightly stewed (or maybe, lightly sous-vided), but never grilled. Very tasty.

I should mention that the dish looks small in the photo, but actually contained 3 generous slices of beef.

 

UNAGI DON - rolled Japanese pickles, tamago, matsutake miso soupA fancier version of the traditional white rice + pickles end to the Japanese meal. The unagi don was more like unagi fried rice - the chunks of eel were fried crispy on the outside, and still very tender on the inside. The rice had the char of a hot wok.

 

ZARU SOBA - topped with minced sudachiWhen the waiter offered an extra noodle dish, I of course could not decline. This buckwheat soba was freshly made that day by Yamamoto's sous-chef. Sudachi is a small green Japanese citrus, which provided a zesty kick. The texture of the noodles was full of bounce and body, a stark contrast to the lifeless soba found in the US.

At this point, I had a brain fart and forgot to take a picture of the palate cleanser. It was a refreshing sudachi sorbet served with a few pieces of snow pear.

 

BAKED CHESTNUT CAKEThe baked chestnut cake seems to be another RyuGin standby. It was served on a glass plaque-style plate, backed with a decorative picture beneath it. Apparently the plate they use varies with the seasons, but always uses the chestnut cake as a visually-striking representation of the moon. The cake itself was pretty good, with a subtle but not overwhelming chestnut flavor.

 

MIZUYOKAN - red bean cakeThis gelatinous version of the traditional red bean cake was incredibly smooth and light. Red bean is not my favorite dessert ingredient, but this had none of the "sandyness" I often find with red beans.

In the end, I was very happy with our meal at RyuGin. It was truly an experience unlike any I've had before. Yamamoto-san created new, groundbreaking combinations of ingredients and flavors in some dishes while reaching back to and modernizing tradition in others. Most importantly, the food was all really, really good. The place is getting a ton of buzz, and deservedly so. As Chuck said in his review, I think we'll be hearing a lot more about RyuGin in the coming years as it pushes for a third Michelin star.

And while the style is decidedly contemporary, Yamamoto-san certainly paid attention to Japanese traditions. As we left the building, the chef and 2 staff members appeared to lead us out and say a final goodbye. They stayed in front of the doorway, all bowing and waving good bye as we walked down the alley. We kept turning back to look and they kept waving, until we got to the main street and could no longer see the restaurant. You've gotta love that kind of hospitality.

Bar Tartine

Last week, I was shocked to discover that Jason Fox was on his way out at Bar Tartine. The restaurant outpost of the always popular Tartine Bakery, Bar Tartine has been one of my favorite restaurants in the city since I got back from Boston. The food was a great representation of what I find to be sophisticated, California cuisine - Chef Fox's creative uses of ingredients really symbolized the type of food that can only be born in San Francisco. I distinctly remember an appetizer of pork belly, calamari, egg salad, and potatoes that was far greater than the sum of its parts (and yes, I realize how delicious each part already is) and easily one of best dishes I ate in 2007. And they served a mean brunch... I'm talking foie gras paninis and smoked salmon benedicts.

So, imagine my surprise when I found out Jason Fox wasn't leaving to pursue some other opportunity. From what I can tell, he's basically been fired (though supposedly in amicable fashion) to make way for Chris Kronner, formerly of Serpentine and Slow Club, who is going to simplify the food. Apparently the owners want to "draw a more direct line" between the restaurant and the bakery... which, if you ask me, sounds like they are trying to lean more in the Maverick/Range direction. Now don't get me wrong - those are two of my favorite restaurants as well - but I really loved what Fox did at Bar Tartine and I thought he brought a unique style to the dining scene. It will be missed, and I hope he quickly lands somewhere else in the city. I haven't been to Serpentine yet, but Chris Kronner is supposedly a great talent. He has big shoes to fill.

Anyway, immediately upon hearing this news, I booked a table to eat Fox's cooking one last time with my mom.

 

COUNTRY BREAD - from Tartine BakeryFirst things first - Tartine Bakery is indeed quite delicious. At Bar Tartine, they serve fresh country bread from their sibling - a wonderful, chewy, slightly sour loaf. It's my favorite table bread anywhere, period. You can buy it by the round at the bakery.

 

HEIRLOOM TOMATOES AND CUCUMBERS - purslane, basil, avocado, pecorino, black olive vinaigrette - $13My mom started with this heirloom tomato salad, a beautiful example of my favorite summer ingredient. The creamy avocado did a great job to smooth out this dish. Bar Tartine has always made some of the city's most top-notch salads.

 

SANTA BARBARA SEA URCHIN - corn custard, chorizo, beech mushrooms, jalapeno, crayfish broth - $15Now here's a prototypical Jason Fox mix of ingredients. One of the most creative Western uni-users I have seen, Fox is an expert at combining unexpected ingredients that just make you say "huh?" while turning them into something amazing. A few beautiful pieces of uni sit on top of a light, slightly sweet custard, which eventually turns into a bit of a stew when stirred together with the other ingredients. The chawanmushi influence is clear, but the Western ingredients make it wholly different. Chorizo gives just the right amount of salt, and the jalapeno kick paired with sea urchin is surprisingly delicious. An absolute winner, and symbolic of what Fox does that separates him from everyone else.

 

POTATO GNOCCHI - hen of the woods mushrooms, corn, sage, parmesan, black truffle oil - $19My mom got this veggie main dish which has been a mainstay on the menu (with just some seasonal variation on which vegetables go in) for the past couple of years. Fox's gnocchi has a nice fluffy texture with some crisping on the edges. The huge chunks of fresh-cut corn were delicious - I guess I'm too young to know what corn used to taste like.

 

FOUR STORY HILL FARM HANGER STEAK - cherry tomato bread salad, french beans, rosemary oil - $27I went with the steak, which appears often on the menu in varying preparations and with changing accompaniments. This piece was cooked nicely and had a nice char to it. I'm not sure if they used that country loaf for the bread salad, but it was yum.

 

CORNMEAL CREPES - blueberries, fresh corn ice cream, lime caramel - $8Bar Tartine has always had strong desserts. I remember it was the first place I tried olive oil ice cream with sea salt, which is now one of my favorite combinations (especially if they give you a piece of that Tartine shortbread). These crepes had a nice mix of flavors going on, particularly the unexpected tang of the caramel. A very nice finish.

And so goes my ode to the Fox era at Bar Tartine. I'm quite sad to write this, as Fox is officially no longer cooking there. I've probably been to Bar Tartine 10-15 times in the past 2 years or so - it was really entrenched into my rotation. I tried to capture some of the essence of the restaurant with my ordering, and I thought the uni dish encompassed Bar Tartine best. Hopefully it gives you an idea of what this place was like. (Admittedly, brandade-stuffed squash blossoms and Pt. Reyes lamb tongue were also tempting.)

I look forward to trying Chris Kronner's food here once he settles in, and hope he brings his own slant to the table. But based on the direction of the restaurant, it's hard not to feel like something is now gone forever with Jason Fox's departure. Best of luck to this place, and I can't wait to find out where Fox ends up. Jason, if you are listening, please don't leave SF!

Maverick

Maverick is a pretty interesting story. Chef/owner Scott Youkilis is a lifelong chef who spent two years at Sociale before opening Maverick. It's not the most exciting pedigree, I have to admit; however, he is also the brother of Kevin Youkilis, the Boston Red Sox All-Star, noted for his extremely efficient on-base percentage and nicknamed the "Greek God of Walks" in the revolutionary book Moneyball. To my knowledge, Baseball Youkilis has no official involvement, and based on the fact that Maverick bears none of the trademark athlete-turn-restaurateur pitfalls, I can only conclude that Chef Youkilis has built this neighborhood spot just like any other successful joint, and the athlete connection is nothing more than a fun fact. The only thing they collaborate on is the signature "Youk's Hot Sauce" - a wonderful, peppery concotion served during brunch and sold by the bottle.

Named after an 1800s Texas cattle rancher, Maverick bills itself as a contemporary American eatery, with some visible influences from the South (as well as New Orleans in particular). The restaurant is tiny - it has maybe 10 tables in total. And for some reason, despite the fact that they serve an absolutely awesome andouille sausage benedict with crawfish hollandaise, the place is never so full that it becomes a hassle to eat there. It's become a go-to brunch spot for me that takes reservations and consistently delivers. But it's not a one-trick pony either; Maverick serves up some delicious grub at dinnertime as well.

 

BROKEN ARROW RANCH ANTELOPE TARTARE - ancho chili sauce, purslane, olive oil soaked toast - $13The tartare is a mainstay on the dinner menu, and for good reason. Antelope is lean, with a milder flavor than you might expect (not much gameyness, and not too far off from beef). It's quite well-suited for tartare, and Youkilis chops it to a nice size. The ancho chili differentiates it from the typical tartare by leaving a very delicate but noticeable heat in the back of your mouth.

 

FRIED GREEN TOMATOES - cornmeal crusted tomatoes, mizuna, heirloom tomatoes, buttermilk dressing - $10These tomatoes have a very nice, crunchy, and greaseless crust. The creamy buttermilk is a good complement to the acidity of the tomatoes. I must admit though that while I've found that I tend to order fried green tomatoes whenever I see them, they never seem to be as delicious as they looked in the 1991 movie named after them. That's not a knock on Maverick as much as it is a statement on the power of imagination when it comes to taste, I guess.

 

PAN ROASTED LIBERTY DUCK BREAST - Crookneck squash custard, squash blossom and russian kale salad, roasted figs, duck jus - $27I thought about ordering the fried chicken - Maverick serves one of the best in town. But I figured I'd be back to take photos of it another time, and this duck was really calling my name. I'm glad I strayed. The breast was perfectly cooked, and had a crackly but not fatty layer of skin. The figs, a pairing I usually find overly sweet, were mild and added just the right balance of flavor to the jus. The cheesy squash custard was a perfect substitute for mozzarella as a partner to the squash blossoms. This dish was a winner.

 

BLUEBERRY BREAD PUDDING - creme fraiche ice cream, blueberry coulis - $8Dessert was a totally pleasant surprise. I can't describe this any better than "blueberry muffin on steroids." Just imagine the best warm blueberry muffin ever, and put some well-made ice cream on top of it.

I really owe it to you guys to come back for brunch some time and take some photos. For now, these dinner pics will have to do. I really feel Maverick is one of the more overlooked restaurants in the city. To me, it's also one of the most convenient - it's always pretty close to full, with a lively atmosphere, and a reliable number of patrons to maintain steady business. But it's also never hard to get in; a few days of planning and it's easy to get a table, and often you can make a reservation the same day at decent times. The menu changes frequently enough to make it a regular member of the restaurant rotation. It's what a good restaurant should be: simple, consistent, and reasonable.

Bushi-Tei Bistro

My cousin Kim and his wife Adrienne (proud Kiwis and new residents of the South Bay) were up in the city tonight to catch a show at the Fillmore. Gomez, an English band, apparently has a hit single called The Theme Song from Grey's Anatomy or something close to that. (Note: Kim was a fan way before they sold out.) Anyway, it wasn't my cup of espresso, but I was still happy to join for a pre-show dinner nearby. We decided on Bushi-Tei Bistro, one of my dad's new Japantown staples.

Bushi-Tei Bistro is a casual offshoot of the fancier Bushi-Tei 2 blocks away. Opened earlier this year, the bistro offers a taste of chef Seiji Wakabayashi's French-Japanese-Californian fusion style in a cheaper, more accessible package. The main Bushi-Tei has received some acclaim, including 3 stars and a Rising Star Chef award for Chef Waka from the Chronicle. The bistro has gotten a less enthusiastic welcome (at least based on some mediocre Yelp reviews, and the relatively empty dining room). Still, I find it to be a reliable Japantown option that offers legitimate cooking at a pretty low price.

The menu is split into some appetizers, soups, salads, pastas, and entrees (with pictures!). You enter from just inside the mall, near Juban and Suzu. I guess the location is best described as "under" Over the Bridge (the restaurant). As this was a family affair, we naturally decided to share everything.

 

CRAB SALAD - crab meat tossed with shungiku "chrysanthemum leaf" -$9.80First up was this crab salad. The chrysanthemum leaf is popular in HK cuisine, but is basically always served cooked. Here, it lends a refreshing, slightly herbal tone. The amount of crab meat was generous.

 

CUCUMBER & GRAVLAX - home cured herb marinated salmon, cucumber spaghetti, crème fraiche - $9.80Here, crisp strings of cucumber are wrapped in cured salmon. The fish has a light flavor with a very pleasant, smooth texture.

 

GYOZA - pan-fried vegetable potstickers, tomatillo sauce - $9.80I swear, some things you will only find in San Francisco. I've never seen tomatillos paired with anything Asian at all, and it's used quite effectively here in place of a typical gyoza sauce. The flavor isn't too far off from the green tomatillo salsa you'd find in your local tacqueria, and the combination with gyoza is an interesting twist.

 

COCONUT OYSTER - fried coconut oysters, corn relish, curried tartar - $9.80Probably the best photo of the bunch, but the least succesful dish. While the oysters were nicely crisp, they were slightly dry on the inside. I don't recall any significant flavor contribution from the corn relish or the curry, and I would have had no idea that coconut was even involved.

 

SHRIMP CAKE - choppped shrimp & crispy vegetables, citrus beurre-blanc sauce - $9.80This one is a little tough to peg. I'd say it's best described as a cross between a Thai fish cake (tod mun) and a typical Western crab cake. The result is pretty tasty - it has the texture of tod mun with a shrimpy, buttery flavor.

 

CAPELLI D'ANGELO - angel hair pasta with tomato, garlic, basil, and extra virgin olive oil - $10.80No fusion involved here, but Bushi-Tei Bistro turns out some pretty good pastas. This capellini pomodoro has perfectly al dente noodles, a nice tomato flavor, and zero sogginess.

 

FETTUCCINE - flat thick pasta with mushroom, bolognaise chicken, and arugula - $10.80A tomato-less twist on your typical bolognese, this has Jap-Ital written all over it. Moist, flavorful ground chicken complements the fettuccine nicely. Kim says he liked this 15 times more than the other pasta. (To be fair, the rest of us thought both were good and pretty incomparable.)

 

SCALLOP - sauteed hotate scallops with kiwi vinaigrette - $16.80This one was a bit of a letdown. These "scallop scallops" were well-cooked and tender, but nothing spectacular. The kiwi vinaigrette gave it a bit of tang which I did not enjoy much. I've realized I'm not much of a kiwi fan in general (the fruit, not the people).

 

TONKATSU - breaded kurobuta pork cutlet - $16.80Bushi-Tei is very strong with pork items, and this tonkatsu is a perfect example. The meat is moist and very tender, and has just the right amount of fat. At the same time, the breading is fairly light and grease-free. They also have a sauteed pork loin dish that is very good.

Not pictured are a pair of desserts that were better than expected - a substantial, not-too-sweet cheesecake creatively paired with some sorbet and chantilly cream, and a nice crisp apple tart.

Bushi-Tei is also a great lunch option, as they offer a bunch of good rice and noodle dishes, including a great katsu-don and supposedly pretty good ramen. It is definitely on my short list of places to grab a bite if I need something in Japantown. Hopefully, business will pick up - the place has a decent number of seats, and I've never seen it more than 30% full. The food is solid, and let's be honest... the options in Japantown are pretty limited if you're not throwing down for Ino, Kappa, or Kiss.

Saison

Last Sunday, my dad and I tried out Saison, a new spot in the Mission. It's an intriguing operation. Headed up by chef Joshua Skenes (of Carte 415 and formerly of Chez TJ) together with Markris Wine Group (sommelier Mark Bright of Local and formerly Michael Mina, plus business partner Kristopher Ezqueda), Saison is a once week event, and not exactly your typical restaurant. Every Sunday night, they borrow the kitchen, back room, and garden of Stable Cafe, and serve 2 rounds of dinner. They can seat about 25 per round, and every week has a 4-course set menu for $60, with an optional $30 wine pairing.

The idea is for Skenes to experiment a little with the freshest, local ingredients, and serve extremely high-quality food in a casual atmosphere. The price is kept low because they specifically accommodate a certain number of people each Sunday, and everyone prepays using Paypal. I assume they close off the reservations by Friday, and spend Friday/Saturday shopping for ingredients to craft the unique menu for that week. It's an interesting concept to say the least, and right up my alley.

I'd never been to Stable Cafe before, but it's a neat little place out in the Mission. Along the side, there's an open gravel walkway that leads to their back yard, where some dining tables are set up. It's a very serene setting given the location, and it almost feels like a slice of European countryside in the middle of the city. Upon arrival, there is a table set up with some bubbly for everyone to sip on while they're setting up. Shortly after, you are given a mini-tour of the kitchen which has an entrance on the side, and then led to the back dining room which also connects around to the yard. The dining room is great, and has the ambiance of a country townhouse with a few modern touches. It's definitely a very casual place (I along with everyone else was wearing jeans). I was digging the vibe right from the get-go. And when the food started coming, things got even better.

 

RAW LOBSTER - caviar, celery, avocadoWe started off with this beautiful amuse of raw lobster. It was pretty generous for an amuse - it took me more than one bite, and clearly had some careful thought put into it. The lobster was bouncy and refreshing, while the caviar's saltiness was balanced by the fresh taste of the celery and avocado. This was paired with the Allimant-Laugner Cremant d'Alsace Rosé, the bubbly we were served outside. It was an excellent, dry rosé I've never heard of (and available for purchase online at $18 a bottle, a total steal).  A good start.

 

HEIRLOOM MELONS - Vadouvan spices, Bellwether ricotta, mixed herbsThe first time I encountered Vadouvan was at Ubuntu in Napa, in their signature cast-iron cauliflower dish. It's an Indian spice mixture that I expect we'll start to see more of in the near future. Here, the spices played off beautifully against the sweetness of the melons (a pristine combination of what seemed to be honeydew and watermelon types) and the creaminess of the ricotta. This was very creative and worked well - melons with kick, who'd have thought? And as you can see, the presentation and colors were beautiful. Paired with a Toni Jost Riesling Kabinett.

 

LOCAL HALIBUT - Pimentón de La Vera, shellfish bouillonNext up was a seafood course. The halibut was tasty and delicate, and yet had a beautifully crispy piece of skin. Chef Skenes said this was achieved by slow-roasting one large piece and breaking it down after. In any case, delicious. Pimentón de La Vera is a smoked Spanish paprika, which lended a little bite, but it was the shellfish bouillon that made this dish. The intensely flavorful broth mixed well together with the halibut and the lobster. This came with a buttery Domaine Marius Delarche white. Delicious.

 

SUCKLING GOAT - cracked hominy, white corn milk, natural jus, thyme, arugula with honey & lemonThe main course was a suckling goat - cooked quite rare, as you can see. I was expecting a strong gamey flavor, but it turned out to be much milder than I thought it would be. The corn foam stuff lended a nice counterpoint to the salt of the jus, and the hominy was a nice hearty grain to complement. A good dish overall, but not as good as the previous two. This one came with a Broc Cellars Syrah, which I thought was fine. My dad complained that it lacked tail, as he does frequently of non-French big reds...

 

LUCERO FARM STRAWBERRIES - muscat sabayon, hibiscus granitéDessert was a simple prepartion of fresh, sweet strawberries with a rich sabayon and some granit é. There's also a bit of shortbread in there. A great mix of flavors - almost like a fancy strawberry shortcake. Mark also brought out a magnum of Riesling that he shared with everyone in the room - a nice, not overly-sweet version that went very well with this. Shoulda taken down the name...

 

MIGNARDISES - chocolate espresso and lavendar salt cookiesThey finished us off with some cookies. Big contrast in flavor between the chocolateyness and the saltiness. I liked the chocolate ones a little better, as they had a nicer, chewy texture.

All in all, it was a great meal, and an absolute steal for the price. I've already made a reservation to return - I'll be taking Keith and Bart to congratulate them on finishing the Bar exam. I love the concept and the quality. I love that they are serving top-shelf food with none of the fuss, as I like to eat good food on more than just special occasions. And of course, I love that they are passing down some of the cost savings! I can't imagine they are making much money, but after speaking to everyone involved, it sounds like this project is more an outlet for them to be creative than a big moneymaking venture. That's good and bad: while I am positive that Saison is going to pick up a lot of steam, I'm also sure that the demand for this place will quickly surpass the supply, especially given their once a week model. Get there while you still can.

Cafe Otto

cafeotto.jpg

Back when I talked about Mores Cafe, I noted the ubiquity of the Australian jack-of-all-trades cafe restaurant. And a few people have told me I sounded kinda bitter by the end of the review because of the phenomenon. Well, there are a few that have some decent food - Cafe Otto is one such place. It's just one of the many cafes on Glebe Point Road, and while the service is pretty slow and the prices aren't the best, they make some pretty good grub.

ham, cheese and shallot crepe with grilled tomato, hollandaise, grilled Turkish bread - A$10 Few things to clarify. In Australia, shallots don't refer to the small onions we call shallots here. They actually mean green or spring onions, aka scallions. Not that there's anything wrong with green onions - just don't be fooled. Also, the hash browns on this plate cost me extra, and were kind of a ripoff. The crepe itself was actually delicious, and I guess if you douse anything in Hollandaise like that, it'll be good. But the thing was too frickin' small, and even after sopping up all the sauce with that Turkish bread, I was still a bit hungry. Other than that, it was a good breakfast.

penne with tuna, onion, extra virgin olive oil, lemon zest, parsley and black pepper - A$17.9 In true Australian cafe style, the menu is broad, and covers pretty much all the categories you can think of. They've got a few more interesting pastas than most places though, and this tuna penne I had once for lunch is one of them. This thing was actually quite good - surprisingly proper al dente, a nice olive flavor, and a bit of kick. Simple, but tasty, and I'd eat it again in a heartbeat. Sadly, at A$17, the value wasn't particularly good. Otto definitely has some service issues to work out, too. Sometimes it was fine, but sometimes food took unbearably long. Slow service was actually a problem at a many of the low to middle-end places I tried. I think Australians are just a loooot more patient than we are... Despite that, I went to Otto a few times when I felt like having some Australian-cafe food. It was nearby, the food was pretty consistent, and so I just rolled the dice on the wait.
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Winterland

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At long last, my final pre-Australia post. Here is a dinner I had with my mom, aunts, and some friends at Winterland. The restaurant occupies a corner spot on Steiner and Sutter that has long been one of San Francisco's cursed restaurant locations. The last restaurant there, Julia, was actually supposed to be pretty good, but for some reason or other shut down (I heard the chef didn't want to do it anymore or something). Either way, it'll be interesting to see if Winterland can survive. Nicaraguan chef Vernon Morales has a pretty strong pedigree, having worked at Daniel in NY and the famed El Bulli in Spain. Fatemeh went after it opened and said it had potential, so I decided it was worth a shot. My mom thinks the place is doomed because of the location and the sorta weirdish name. The restaurant is pretty neat and stylish on the inside. There's a bar area in the front, with a split dining area deeper inside. The furniture and decor are decidedly modern.

melon soup with lemon-lime mousse It was cool to receive an amuse bouche given Winterland's mid-range prices. I had ordered a la carte, while a few went with a $31 prix fixe. This chilled soup was light yet flavorful, with just the right sweetness.

Monterey shrimp & zucchini blossom, saffron tomato, basil jus - $11 This app is one of my favorite ingredient combinations. The best zucchini blossom I've ever had was in Rome, where it was deep fried, stuffed with cheese, and served with some fried prawns. This version was obviously different, combining a classic zucchini blossom preparation with some lighter shrimp. The basil sauce complemented both items very well.

heirloom tomato, mozzarella & arugula salad, micro basil, olive oil, cabernet vinegar This SF summer app was an option on the $31/3 course prix fixe, which turns out to be a great deal. It was definitely towards the end of the tomato season when we went, but this was still a pretty good version of the dish.

veal chop roasted with chanterelles, sweetbread "nuggets", chorizo, potato confit, Xerez vinegar jus - $29 This dish was okay, though it didn't quite live up to the ingredient overload of the description. The chop was cooked well and the mushrooms were tasty, but I was a bit disappointed by the slightly bland sweetbreads. Pretty good, but I sort of wish I'd ordered the Berkshire pork duo that was also on the menu.

skate wing roasted with hazelnut, Jerusalem artichoke, grilled asparagus, brown butter sauce The main dish of the prix fixe was this very nice skate wing. I had a bite, and the fish was both moist and flaky.

caramelized brioche, pomello peel marmalade, olive oil ice cream - $8 I forgot to snap a photo of the prix fixe dessert, but forget about that. This brioche blew it away, and was probably one of my favorite desserts of the year. It tasted like a delicate bread pudding - rich, soft, and surprisingly fluffy. The browned caramelized top added a kick of sweetness, and the olive oil ice cream was the perfect cold element.

mignardises They gave us this set of freebies after dessert - a fruit pate thing, some toffee nut thing, and an okay cookie. Again, it's nice to get freebies when you pay $31 for a 3 course meal. So pending Winterland's survival, I wouldn't mind going back. The food wasn't absolutely superb (well, my dessert was), but it was pretty good and I'd be happy to try more of Morales' stuff. Let's see if the place can break the dreaded Steiner/Sutter curse. Hope everyone has a good New Year. My next post will be about Sydney.
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West

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I tend to favor Asian restaurants whenever I'm in Vancouver - the standard of Japanese and Chinese cuisine there is just so high. While the city isn't as known for its Western offerings, I will admit that the Western stuff has improved a lot in the past 15 years. There is definitely some very respectable Western-style food being cooked up there. The most famous place is probably Food Network Canada celeb Rob Feenie's Lumi�re, which I still haven't been tried (hopefully this will change by the new year). Another restaurant that is leading the way is West, which won Restaurant of the Year 2005 from Vancouver Magazine. My uncle John was kind enough to take us there for a nice lunch. The restaurant is nicely designed, with lots of open space and a modern look. Racks of wine behind the bar rise to the ceiling, covering the right side of the room. The tables on the other side sit under natural light that floods in through the front window. It was a weekday lunch, so the place wasn't too full. I loved the brightly-lit relaxed environment, but I imagine it's much different during dinner time. The menu is presented in a sort of grid format, divided into soup, salad, risotto, pasta, fish, meat, and sides. Each item is listed by its main ingredient, with a bit more description under it. It looks pretty cool, but it's a bit strange to navigate. I happened to get two things that were specials, so I apologize for the lack of description/price...

beef tartare as served

beef tartare all mixed I started with a simple beef tartare - very tasty and well-executed. The beef was chopped fairly roughly, which I like (though not quite as chunky as Tartare). The dressing had a nice tang to it. The fancy-looking fries were actually quite good - very crispy on the outside and very rich and potato-ey on the inside.

roasted sablefish with lemon gnocchi and cherry tomatoes Hope I'm getting the description right on this - I forgot to write it down. I found the fish to be wonderful. It was extremely tender and flaky, and almost melted in my mouth. The gnocchi were light and pillowy. The tomato sauce, though, was just too sweet. I found myself trying not to get too much on the fish, as the sweetness became overpowering. Still a very good dish though.

white chocolate raspberry bars, chocolates filled with currant? and dipped in nuts It was lunch and we weren't feeling actual desserts, but West gave us these freebies at the end. Again, I'm blanking a bit on the descriptions. I remember the chocolate/raspberry thing to be very cold, almost like an ice cream treat, and very delicious at that. I don't remember as much about the other one, which probably means it wasn't as great. I must say though that I was quite impressed with this meal. Throw in the fact that at lunch the apps all range from around C$10-C$16 and mains from C$18-C$21, with one topping out at C$25, it's tough to complain. The value is certainly very good. I would be keen to try dinner here, which is a bit more expensive but probably a bit more fancy too.
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Myth

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One place that I wanted to make a return trip to was Myth. I was pretty happy with it my first time there, back before it got written up in the Chron. It's become really hot now, and its popularity was evidenced by the packed house on my second trip there (this time with my mom). I still think it's one of the coolest dining rooms in the city - very relaxed, modern, and open. I guess the question is whether Myth can keep its standards high when it's drawing huge crowds every night...

seared scallops with chanterelle mushrooms, corn and potato puree - $14 One thing I really like about the place is that all the pastas and seafood dishes are offered as apps or mains. This versatility allows you to mess around a bit with what you feel like eating on any given night. I got these scallops as an app, and I was surprised by the generous portion. The scallops were beautifully seared and caramelized, and the sweet corn was delicious. The potato puree was like a mini version of the amazingingly rich potato purees I had at Chez Bru and Le Cinq in France.

garganelli pasta with foie gras cream, maitake mushrooms and marsala - $14 Going in, I kept trying to convince myself to try something else on the menu. I failed. I couldn't resist getting the garganelli again... I just loved it so much last time. On this trip, I had to get it as a main. This version was slightly modified, with mushrooms instead of pomegranate. I'm sad to report though that this wasn't quite as good as the first time. The sauce wasn't as rich, and I felt like the foie gras/marsala ration leaned a bit more toward marsala than the first trip. I also preferred the pomegranate - a much more interesting and effective flavor than the mushrooms. It was still pretty good, but not something I'd immediately order again.

peaches and cream: lemon verbena infused panna cotta and peach croustada - $8 Lemon verbena popped up again and I had to get it. The panna cotta was pretty cold (you can see the condensation!) and very refreshing. It was a great compliment to the warm tart. So my second trip to Myth was quite good. I was a little disappointed that the garganelli wasn't as good as the first time, but the scallops were great. Maybe I'll make a trip out there again in the summer of 2006 and see how things are going. I wonder how long it'll stay hot in the SF restaurant scene...
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Rose's Cafe

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I am really in the midst of an eating frenzy here in Paris, and thus I have to apologize if I seem to be lacking in enthusiasm while I finish out a few of these SF posts... I'm eager to start writing about my trip. I'll try my best though to give Rose's Cafe a fair look. Rose's is a small little restaurant on Union that has provided solid lunch fare for my occasional visits over the years. I went a while back with my mom for lunch; she's quite fond of the place. Once a sort of takeout/deli/restaurant hybrid, Rose's Cafe is now a full-fledged sit-down restaurant. The old take out counter thing has been replaced with a counter for the kitchen to put out all the food, with the pizza oven proudly burning behind. They have a great corner with outdoor seating to peoplewatch a bit on Union, but it was a bit chilly so we elected to sit inside. The room is bright and warm, just like you'd want from a neighborhood joint.

marinated beets, arugula & goat cheese - $8.5 I've grown quite fond of beets over the past year or two, a trend that I think can be traced back originally to the beet salad at LuLu. These beets were very light and refreshing, and the mild goat cheese added a nice counterpoint to the sweet flavor.

mozzarella di bufala, heirloom tomatoes & basil - $10 My mom went with the caprese, a big mistake to say the least. This was one of the worse preparations I can remember having - bland, stringy, all-out bad mozzarella with as sad an excuse for heirloom tomatoes as I've ever seen during summer in San Francisco. The tomatoes were sliced so thin that they were barely there, and tasteless to boot. At $10, a ripoff (which says something coming from me when my frame of reference right now is a tasting menu at Guy Savoy from last night).

penne alla carbonara with english peas - $16 Luckily, the caprese was an anomaly - everything else was great. My penne was rich and creamy, and though not the most traditional of carbonaras, a tasty dish nonetheless. The big, plentiful peas were bouncy and refreshing.

sweet corn, scallion & chiles de padron pizza with white truffle oil - $17 My mom's pizza was equally nice - hot, blistered, and crispy out of the oven. The chiles added a very slight amount of kick to boost the saltiness in the cheese and the sweetness in the corn. My only complaint was that this pizza cooled off rather quickly, and when that happened it became much less delicious. So with the exception of the mozzarella/tomato, it was a great lunch. You'd think that's a tough dish to really screw up, but hey, everything else was good. I wouldn't mind trying more pizza from here.
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Isa

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After reading this review by Amy, I was inspired again to go check out Isa. I've been there 3 or 4 times before, but not for a couple of years. It was always good - in particular, I remember a potato-leek soup with sea scallops that was out of this world. From that point on, I realized the kitchen was very good at soups, and ordered whatever was on the menu each time I went. I've never been disappointed. Anyway, flash forward to 2005. I tried the spinoff L�x last year, and it was alright but not great. A week or two ago I made a trip back to Isa with my mom and Bart. It turns out the restaurant has doubled in size and completely renovated, having taken over the nail salon (I think) that used to be next to it. The place is much wider now, with a decent sized bar and a lot more tables. Isa is a small shared plates restaurant, so here come a lot of pictures...

butter lettuce salad with bartlett pears, roquefort & candied walnuts - $8.5 This simple salad was well-executed and refreshing. The sweet, ripe pears went very well with the fairly mild roquefort. A good start to the meal.

lobster broth with tiger prawns & fresh tarragon - $7

smooth corn soup with fresh herbs & roasted corn garnish - $6 The soups now come in portions for either one or two (for a couple of dollars more). We wanted to try both soups, so instead we just got one serving of each, with the lobster split into two for me and Bart. I'm glad to report the kitchen has not lost its deft touch with soup, as both of these were just fantastic. The lobster soup was smoky and flavorful, with generous servings of big, plump prawns, and delicious croutons. The corn soup was equally good with chunks of super sweet kernels and a hearty broth. Also, both were piping hot. I think I may start coming to Isa for lunch and just having some nice soup!

sauteed pea shoots with garlic - $6 The biggest misstep of the night were these pea shoots (or in Chinese, dou miao). I guess they're catering to an audience that isn't too familiar with the real thing - you get damn good pea shoots in Hong Kong. These pea shoots aren't even worth putting on the menu, if you ask me.

potato wrapped seabass with brown buter, capers, lemon & parsley - $15 Pretty good seabass. It looked dry at first, but that was probably cuz of the potato crust. The inside was juicy and tender, and the brown butter sauce was nice, though a bit too salty and intense.

seared foie gras with white peaches & a custard brioche - $16 Along with the soups, the best dish of the night. This was a very nice, smooth, rich piece of foie, and the picture doesn't show how generous the serving was. It was definitely the biggest seared foie gras I've seen in a while. The peaches were sweet, but not too sweet, and we actually ate them all. The brioche sopped up all the juices nicely.

seared duck breast with balsamic onions, potato rosti & wild huckleberry sauce - $17 A nice juicy duck breast, rosy and rare in the middle. Bart, who claims he doesn't eat duck much, liked this a lot. The potatoes were just glorified hash browns, but at least they were very good hash browns (and I love the stuff). The onions were crisp with just the slightest balsamic flavor - quite refreshing.

tortiglioni pasta with crushed black truffles, tomato, basil & parmesan reggiano - $11 Finally, a nice and simple pasta. It had plenty of truffle scent but not a ton of taste. Still, I really loved this dish - a very light tomato/basil sauce with a heavy dose of tasty parmigiano. The pasta was perfectly al dente.

passion fruit soup with mango - $6 As you can see, this chilled soup had a beautiful, bright color. It tasted intensely tropical, quite sweet and quite sour (though not too much of either). Tons of little mango chunks are hidden at the bottom. It was sort of like a really concentrated juice. Very refreshing.

semifreddo agli amaretti - $5 This serving was big! The semifreddo was like a very rich ice cream with a strong nutty flavor. I liked this a lot but we were too full to finish. I think Isa is actually even better than it was before. The crowds seem to have died down a bit - back in the day, it was tough to get a table. Now they've expanded and seem to be trying to pimp Lux pretty hard. The food at Isa is better if you ask me. Get the soup!
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Zuni Cafe

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Went for a nice lunch stop at Zuni Cafe with my dad. Zuni's become a somewhat regular stop for me again. We sat in the very corner of the restaurant, just to the left of the front entrance. It's usually pretty easy to walk in and get a table (for 2, at least) in that spot. Every time I go to Zuni I am amazed by the beautiful natural light that just fills up the whole restaurant. I think that Zuni is one of the few places out there in which a digital camera simply refuses to use flash - it's like being outside!

house-made bresaola with spicy carrot-radish salad - $12 This was an excellent opener. I assume they were using the same bresaola that Sam had a couple of weeks earlier, and it looks like they listened to her comments - our bresaola was sliced perfectly and tasted great. Perhaps even better was the carrot-radish salad on the side, which had a wonderful dressing. It was just a simple vinaigrette with some kind of chili or pepper oil mixed in, but boy was it delicious. Neither of us are big carrot fans (although I love radishes - my dad doesn't like those either), but we devoured this salad. There was also a strange root vegetable mixed in there with the carrots and radishes - it was like a cross between the two. I thought at first that they were French radishes from the shape, but they were actually orange inside - red-skinned carrots! It's like the carrots and the radishes had babies. Very intriguing. I'd never seen it before; anyone know what they were? Unfortunately, you can't see them too well in my photo. Look for the long cut pieces of carrot in the back, and you might be able to see the red skin.

shoestring potatoes - $6 The shoestrings were as good as ever - light, crisp, and tasty. We asked for some aioli to dip it in and they happily obliged, bringing a great tangy mayo. I think this plate of fries can handle a very large number of people. We tried hard but just couldn't clean it off...

house-ground hamburger on grilled rosemary focaccia with garden lettuces, aioli and Zuni pickles + gruy�re- $12 My dad went with the burger, which he claims he enjoys as a counterpoint to the massive Mo's burger every once in a while. And although I still prefer Mo's overall, a bite of this was a nice reminder that Zuni puts out a pretty damn good burger too. I'll admit it's been a while since I've given the Zuni burger a chance...

rigatoni pasta with red-wine duck sauce - $13 I went with the pasta that day - Zuni usually does a pretty good job with them. It was pretty good - the sauce was hearty but still very light, and the myriad of ingredients provided much flavor. It was a great main dish for lunch. Zuni continues to hold its own as one of the best lunches around. Simple, great food and a relaxing atmosphere ensure that I'll keep going back.
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Lime

lime.jpg Sorry about the slowdown lately - things are afoot at Arthur Hungry HQ. I'm just about done with my SF stuff and I'll be getting to Boston soon. Here is dinner at Lime. Now let me say a few things... First, I picked this place after browsing OpenTable for a little bit. Restauranteurs out there, getting on OpenTable will bring customers like me - it's not unusual for me to have no idea where I want to go, and just pop it open and pick a place that looks interesting. I encourage you all to use it. Second, Lime's website is great - pictures, info, menus, prices. This sounds obvious, but that was another big factor that convinced me to go. I also remembered my dad mentioning it at some point (though I didn't remember details) so it stuck out a bit in my mind. Now, upon arrival, I was almost shocked at how hip/chic the scene was. The decor is tough to describe - they advertise it as "1960s-era modernist," and from my computer at home this sounded pretty cool. It is indeed very cool, and quite over the top. Sadly, I was there with Keith and my mom to have dinner. It turns out Lime wasn't the greatest choice in terms of its scene; it's much better suited for grabbing some drinks and eating a bit with some friends. Parking was hell too. So with that caveat in mind, here's the food.

deviled eggs, "like mom made" (i don't think my mom has ever made deviled eggs)- $5

zucchini frites, crispy buttermilk batter, basil aioli - $6

roasted yukon gold potatoes, spicy smoked paprika aioli - $5 The menu is categorized by price ($5-$10, in $1 increments). The deviled eggs were quite good, but I admit it's been years since I've had another deviled egg so I don't know how this compares to the ones "mom" makes/made. The zucchini frites were alright, but just a touch greasy. After eating them for a while, the batter started to dominate a bit. The roasted potatoes were the best of the lot I think, with the skins ever so slightly crisp. The aioli was addictive.

fish tacos - cornmeal dusted halibut, avocado & sour cream, tomato salsa - $8

tuna poke - diced ahi tuna, cucumber, avocado, soy vinaigrette, won ton chips - $9

ricotta gnocchi, with a sautee of shiitake mushrooms, sweet white corn & herbs - $8 These plates were a little bit worse. The fish tacos were good, but a bit heavy on the guacomole. The fish was light and would have stood well on its own. A good dish, but obviously nothing for a good tacqueria to worry about. The tuna poke was bland, bland, bland. Something was off with the ratio of vinaigrette, and to make things worse, there was too much cucumber. The won ton chips were way too thick, and had a weak, stale crunch to them. My mom can make a better tuna tartare (so can Michael Mina), and this poke just couldn't compete. The ricotta gnocchi would have been much better if they'd put a bit less parmesan on top. I liked the gnocchi themselves as well as the corn, but the parmesan just overpowered everything else. I think Lime is actually a really great place - the food isn't excellent, but it would serve very well as an accompaniment to some drinks with friends. The drink menu looked very interesting, and I certainly see myself coming back for a good time. It just isn't the best choice for a serious meal. So, my diligent online research didn't do too well this time around, but don't get me wrong - OpenTable plus good websites still equals customers! I just happened to pick Lime for the wrong occasion.
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Zuni Cafe

zuni.jpg Keith had an itch to go to Zuni Cafe while he was in town. I'd been as recently as this past summer, but I was happy to oblige on the condition that he'd split the roasted chicken with me - a dish that I hadn't had in a long time because I can't order it with my mom. Zuni Cafe is an SF establishment... it has its lovers and its haters, but I'm a firm supporter of the place. Judy Rodgers (of Chez Panisse lineage) consistently puts out simple, reliable food using great ingredients. The space is casual and booming with natural light. I'm not a big fan of their famous burger (it's on the fancy side for me), but I think their chicken is easily one of the best chicken preparations in the city.

Red Kuri squash soup with garlic, cumin and cr�me fra�che - $7.5

roasted chicken for two with warm Tuscan-style bread salad - $38 The soup was just the right thickness and had a clean, mellow flavor. It was a perfect starter for the crisp, sunny day. I do think I let the waiter crack a touch too much pepper on it, though - I wish I said stop a second earlier. The chicken was just as good as in the past: moist, tender, juicy, flavorful... the bread salad, which doesn't get as much pub, is really a key element of the dish. The big chunks of bread soaked with vinaigrette were just stellar. The portion was enormous - a third person could easily have joined in and ate until he/she were full. Despite Zuni's many critics, I maintain that it's as solid a place as any to enjoy a nice simple lunch that exemplifies California cuisine. Fresh ingredients, simple preparations, lots of sunlight and a casual atmosphere equal one enjoyable SF afternoon.
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Michael Mina Restaurant

michaelmina.jpg Now this post is gonna be a real treat. I was lucky enough to go to the acclaimed Michael Mina with my dad and Geoff. Michael Mina has a very strong pedigree, with a history that includes Aqua and Charles Nob Hill (but also the ill-fated Redwood Park). The Aqua empire has spread quite significantly, with major projects going on at the Bellagio and MGM Grand in Las Vegas as well. Michael Mina is Mina's new flagship, right at the heart of Union Square in the St. Francis Hotel, and is probably the hottest restaurant opening of 2004. Geoff was a bit excited for this meal because he apparently saw a Food Network special back home about the construction of this place. The restaurant is in the hotel lobby, up some stairs in a massive, open-air space. The decor is clean and simple, with huge columns rising up to the ceiling. The result is a dining room that is at once professional (even formal) but at the same time comforting and relaxed. Simply put - the place looks great. The place has a few options for ordering. You can get a $78 three-course meal, which is deceiving because each course takes an ingredient and serves it in a multitude of different ways (as many as six!). There are also two $120 seven-course tasting menu options - one is a seasonal tasting menu, while the other is Michael's classic menu, which includes many of the dishes that made Mina famous. I chose the classic menu.

osetra caviar, creme fraiche, smoked salmon, egg, fried potato cake This was the freebie opener. My dad and Geoff, who both got the seasonal tasting, got a slightly different caviar based dish. This thing was delicious. I've never particularly loved caviar, but in this dish it was perfect, a great combination with the salmon and the potato cake. I thought it was a little funny to combine caviar with something as simple as a hash brown, but I love hash browns, and it turns out they're a perfect starch to soak up the saltiness of the caviar and the salmon. It was also pretty decently sized - perhaps too big to be considered an amuse bouche!

ahi tuna tartare, scotch bonnet peppers, sesame oil Tuna tartare seems pretty much ubiquitous nowadays, but I think Mina deserves credit for popularizing the dish at Aqua - it's still the restaurant's specialty. Michael Mina's tuna tartare is mixed at the table as it should be, and as delicious as I remember it at Aqua. I think the thing that really makes this tartare is the use of scotch bonnet (aka habanero), which gives the tuna a legitimate kick that is not found in any other version I've tried.

lobster pot pie, brandied lobster cream, seasonal vegetables I wish I could have gotten a picture of this as it was being served. It came out still in the pot, with the pie pastry still covering it. The waiter served it by peeling the pie (almost like a puff pastry) off, putting it on the plate, then carefully placing the ingredients and pouring the sauce over it all. As a result the pie part is kind of buried, but believe me it's there, under the lobster. And boy was it delicious - tender lobster, flaky pie, and a mouthwatering sauce. It was almost like an extremely rich lobster bisque. As you have probably guessed, I soaked up every last drop with my bread.

miso glazed sea bass in consomme, shiitake, bok choy, scallop dumpling I'm often a bit weary about these Asian-style Western dishes, but this one was excellent. The fish was cooked perfectly and melted in my mouth. Neither the soy nor the miso were overpowering. The scallop dumpling was creative and delicious, though I admit the skin was not as good as a great Chinese dumpling's can be.

roasted foie gras, maui gold pineapple, young ginger The menu listed just the roasted foie gras, but there was also a torchon which you can see at the back. Both were good, but I preferred the hot one. It had a nice subtle glaze, and didn't have the big chunks of overly sweet candied fruit that foie gras always seems to come with. The brioche was nice as well.

pan fried poussin, truffled macaroni and cheese By far, the lowlight of the meal. My dad, also underwhelmed by his poultry course, played devil's advocate and argued that poultry is often the hardest course to make "special" so to speak. My poussin was just okay, but I remember a few bites of it being a little dry. The macaroni and cheese had too much cheese and sauce going on to really get a good taste of truffle. The only disappointing dish of the night. The side of veggies (I think that's broccolini!) was crisp and delicious.

steak rossini, seared foie gras, pinot noir sauce The steak course almost made me order the seasonal tasting - their version had some kind of Kobe rib roast that sounded great. But I was reassured by the presence of the seared foie gras and soldiered on. This dish, though not quite as good as the Kobe version across the table, was still wonderful. The sauce was a great complement, perhaps even more so to the foie gras than to the steak. The side was a sort of potato au gratin, and very yummy.

banana tarte tatin, caramel sauce, cinnamon ice cream Whatever points the classic menu lost to the seasonal one on the steak course, they were made up with dessert. This banana tarte tatin really hit on all cylinders. The tarte was smooth, rich, and not too sweet. The intense banana flavor matched with the subtle cinnamon ice cream was a perfect combination. In other words, I really, really liked this dessert.

milk chocolate bon bons with espresso ice cream, dark chocolate bon bons with raspberry sorbet From what I understand, every meal at Michael Mina ends with the presentation of these bon bons in 2 flavors. They were both delicious and refreshing... I just wish I had a box of them in my freezer. The presentation was delightful. Overall, our meal at Michael Mina was fabulous, even despite high expectations going in. Only the poussin wasn't extremely good (that doesn't mean it was bad - just decent), and I'll let them slide on 1 out of 9 items. The service was impeccably professional, and not the least bit pretentious or snotty, especially given that Geoff and I were proabbly by far the two youngest people in the whole restaurant. Also note that my shoddy photography does not do justice to the presentation of the dishes - everything looked as beautiful as it tasted. Some of the dishes from the regular 3 course tasting that we saw floating around the room looked even more impressive. Mina apparently spent a significant amount of time designing china and plates and whatnot, and you can tell some of them are custom-made specifically for certain things on the menu. My dad thinks Michael Mina is now the place to be in SF proper for high-end fancy dining, and from what I've tried I think I can agree.
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Foreign Cinema

foreigncinema.jpg A few days after I got back from Vancouver, Geoff came down to SF to visit for the first time in a long time. Our first dinner was at Foreign Cinema, a place in the Mission. The place is themed around, you guessed it, a cinema. After entering, you walk through a long corridor before entering a large, open room. Usually, they'll have a movie being projected onto a massive wall while you eat. There is also an upstairs section which I didn't get to check out. It's a very interesting setting and hard to describe - you should go check it out yourself if you can! I'm sure the film buffs love this place.

baked fromage d'Affinois, finnish potato and roasted garlic - $10

beef carpaccio, dijon sauce, waffle chips, fried herbs & capers, cress - $10

sea scallops & mussels, saffron-fennel broth, romesco, aioli, arugula, chapons - $22 The food is a vague mix of French, Italian, and some Mediterranean... I it's guess best described as Californian, like so many restaurants nowadays. The fromage, under the heading "Urban Picnic (unleash the appetite!) is delicious. It was just a simple presentation of cheese, potatoes, and garlic, but the three ingredients went together extremely well. The baked fromage was extremely smooth and creamy, with a fairly mild flavor - a great complement to garlic and potatoes. I loved the dijon sauce on the carpaccio; I'm always glad to see something more than olive oil. After trying the original carpaccio at Harry's Bar in Venice, I really feel that carpaccio deserves some type of aioli/mayo sauce, and this dijon fit the bill. The waffle chips were a bit too salty though. The scallops and mussels were a nice twist on bouillabaisse, using seared scallops which I thought was a great idea. The saffron lended some color without overpowering the dish, and the broth was delicious. I also loved the romesco (like a red version of rouille using some nuts and red peppers) which can be seen on the big crouton. Foreign Cinema is definitely worth a visit. It's also a great option for bringing guests or out of towners - the place has a unique character to it. The whole them is interesting and a lot of fun.
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Myth

myth.jpg My dad really beat the rush in spotting Myth, the new restaurant featuring Sean O'Brien, former sous-chef of Gary Danko. It occupies the space that was formerly MC Squared, and is just a minute from the apartment. We went just after the new year, and the place was still quite empty and quiet. The space is absolutely gorgeous - clean, modern, refined, and comfortable, all without being at all tacky or cold. I personally thought that MC Square's design was very cool, but many people thought it felt a bit soul-less. Myth certainly isn't guilty of the same. To be honest, I think Myth has one of the nicest designs of any restaurant I can remember going to for a long time. The aesthetic is at once simple and beautiful. There's also a nice bar at the entrance that seems like a great place to get a drink. Anyway, like I said, my dad was keen enough to spot this place before a lot of others. It looks like Michael Bauer at the Chronicle put out a glowing review a few weeks after we went, and the place has since been very hot.

garganelli pasta with foie gras cream and marsala - $8 The menu offers a commendable amount of flexibility. Basically, the pasta and the seafood dishes are both offered in appetizer or entree sizes. There are also a variety of other appetizers, as well as numerous meat entrees. I chose the garganelli as an app and the salmon as an entree. The garganelli is, without a doubt, one of the best and most interesting pastas I have had in a while. The description made it an immediate decision as soon as I saw it (foie gras cream? marsala? heaven?), and I was not disappointed. Garganelli, a sort of imperfectly-shaped tube pasta, is paired with a cream sauce that contains no big pieces or chunks of foie gras, yet bursts with foie gras flavor. Then again, as any who have cooked foie gras can attest too, the stuff tends to sort of melt into ooze after you cook it for a while. Mmm, foie gras ooze. The pomegranate seeds you see on top add an interesting sweet twist. This dish is just excellent in every way: it inventively uses ingredients both common and unusual to create a whole that is simply delicious.

citrus glazed salmon with lobster lemongrass sauce, king eryngiis, and basmati rice - $17

pear upside down cake with cr�me fraiche ice cream - $8 After such a great starter, I already knew there was little chance that my salmon would be able to keep up. As I soaked up the last bit of sauce in the pasta with my bread, I kinda just wished I'd ordered an app from the app list and gotten a bigger portion of the pasta. Luckily, the salmon dish was also great - skillfully-cooked, tasty, and well-matched with the buttery rice. It wasn't as good as the garganelli, but it was still good, and I happily enjoyed every last bite on my plate. My pear cake was decent but unspectacular - I'd probably order something else next time. All in all, I am happy to have Myth as a nearby option. Hopefully, its recent successes don't do anything to harm the quality of the food. The space is really wonderful and it's a great, comfortable place to eat. The garganelli is heavenly indeed, and, at $8 as an app or $14 as an entree, an absolute steal. Most of the entrees come in at around $20 or under, with just lamb chops and steak at $26. I'm sort of expecting the prices to go up though...
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Zuni Cafe

My mom and I had a quick lunch at Zuni Cafe, one of San Francisco's staples. I hadn't been in a year or two. They're famous for their chicken (which is for two, so I can't get it with my vegetarian mom), and their burger. I've tried both in the past... The chicken is damn good, no doubt about it. The Zuni burger uses focaccia and errs on the fancier side. I don't like it as much as I like the ones at Mo's. So here's lunch at Zuni's, minus their two most famous items...


zuni caesar salad - $9 zuni caesar salad - $9


grilled hanger steak sandwich with roasted gypsy peppers, balsamic mayo, and watercress, green bean salad - $13.5 grilled hanger steak sandwich with roasted gypsy peppers, balsamic mayo, and watercress, green bean salad - $13.5


shoestring potatoes - $6 shoestring potatoes - $6 The caesar salad came out great. Crispy romaine with just the right kick in the dressing. Most importantly to me, they had big crunchy delicious croutons. Croutons just make or break a caesar if you ask me, and these were wonderful. The steak sandwich was a little odd. You may be asking yourself, where in between those two slices of bread is the steak? Well, it's there, it's just a really thinly-sliced layer. I wondered the same thing when the waiter dropped the plate in front of me. I'm the last person you'll find that would order a roasted peppers and watercress sandwich. So it is unfortunate that there isn't very much steak in the thing, because the sandwich was actually really good. The combo of the mayo, peppers, and watercress actually went really well with the steak. Double the amount of meat and it would have been a truly great sandwich. The green bean salad was also excellent... tender beans and tasty dressing. Sort of like what the Fog City Diner one was trying to be. The shoestring potatoes were huge. Nothing spectacular about em though; they taste the same as the ones you've all tried at a bunch of other places. Not bad, not good. I've made a few updates to the navigation bar... I added a little box to update you guys about where I am, as people have been getting confused about why I'm posting stuff from San Francisco when I'm in Boston right now. The short answer is that I've been lazy and have let enough photos pile up for me to be late almost an entire semester. The bright side is that I've taken a sparse amount of photos since I've been back at school, mostly due to the fact that my diet has been consisting mostly of Cookin' Cafe delivery, Nud Pob, and other stuff that would be a bit repetitive to photograph. I should be caught up completely by Christmas. Also, I updated the list of links I've got up there.
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Curbside Cafe

Here's the first meal I had in SF after getting back from Asia. I went to Curbside Cafe on California with my mom for brunch.


chorizo and eggs - $9 chorizo and eggs - $9 This place is pretty reliable for a decent breakfast. Chorizo and eggs is one of my favorite combos... it's the ideal sausage/egg since it has a slight hint of spice. The tortillas are corn but not totally fresh. Still, very addictive to go with the dish.
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