Pizza Politana

I'm sad to say that my old office was located in a bit of a culinary wasteland up in the north bay. You pretty much had to at least drive to Central San Rafael to get to anything of interest. Luckily, there is a Farmers' Market at the San Rafael Civic Center every Thursday. I pretty much went every week because it was a more interesting lunch option than most things in the immediate area. There are maybe 10 or so food vendors there - nothing big compared to the Ferry Building markets, but still not bad at all.

Most frequently, I would hit up Pizza Politana, Joel Baecker's mobile pizza operation. It so happens I have some photos from lunch there exactly a year ago - August 27, 2009. Pizza Politana is basically a wood-fired oven on wheels, and they churn out beautiful little 1-person pizzas. They show up at many Bay Area farmers' markets, so you've probably seen their little trailer around before. They started going to Marin first before they expanded, and Joel himself would be there every week making pies. They're now at the Ferry Building Thursday market as well, so I guess he's got a lot more running around to do.

PEPPERONI - tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, artisan pepperoni - $10The pepperoni pizza is always available, and it's a great rendition of the classic pie. The sauce is subtle and never overwhelming, and the crust has a nice chew, which I prefer to the cracker-like crispy pizzas out there.

MARKET - tomato sauce, black olives, spinach, red onion, mozzarella, parmesan - $12They also have a constantly-changing Market pizza, with a variety of toppings based on the season. On this day it was this pizza with tasty black olives and some nice fresh veggies. The Market pizza varies a lot, and I've had everything from clam pies and white pizzas to classics like Italian sausage.

Simple pizza in the gleaming Marin sun - what could be better? Pizza Politana is quick, consistent, and always delicious. If you're at Marin Civic Center on a Thursday, don't hesitate to try them out. Alternatively, if you're at the Ferry Building, and there are literally 493 people lining up at Roli Roti for a porchetta sandwich, I promise one of these pies will leave you very happy.

(Don't get me wrong though... those porchetta sandwiches are bomb.)

Maverick

I once promised to post some brunch pictures from Maverick, one of my SF brunch mainstays. There are two critical factors about brunch at Maverick. First, the food is delicious. Second, they are on OpenTable and take brunch reservations. It's generally pretty easy to get in, and there is rarely a line like other top brunch spots (such as personal favorite Universal Cafe... and I won't even get into places like Dottie's or Mama's). The intersection of convenience and quality make Maverick a standard brunch stop. I guess it's at a slightly higher price point than the packed brunch places, but I'll pay an extra few dollars to avoid the hassle.

ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE BENEDICT - grilled andouille sausage, poached eggs, crawfish and jalapeno hollandaise, English muffin, home fries - $15If you're eating brunch at Maverick for the first time, order the andouille benedict. It's been on the menu for years, and it really is their best dish. I'm a sucker for any good eggs benedict, and these eggs are expertly-poached. Maverick then mixes it up by using andouille sausage instead of ham, and throwing some crawfish into the hollandaise. The result is a nice peppery kick that gives the whole plate some life. The potatoes are also excellent here - hot and crispy on the outside, smooth on the inside.

MAC 'N CHEESE - $6Their mac 'n cheese is also a winner. Extremely rich and comforting, and also an excellent pair with the hot sauce...

YOUK'S HOT SAUCE - free, but it'll cost you $7 to take a bottle homeAnd a fine hot sauce it is. In fact, it might be my favorite American-style hot sauce of all (though admittedly, I've never been to the south). According to the label, the sauce is based mainly on serranos, jalapenos, and cayenne. It's got a wonderful tangy bite that goes perfectly with the potatoes and the mac 'n cheese (or just about anything, really). Love this stuff. Looks like they're actually selling it online now too.

So that's a typical brunch at Maverick. Apologies again for the long long overdue post. If you're awake in the morning on a weekend and looking for some numnums, definitely check out Maverick. You won't have to deal with the 600-person line in front of Dottie's.

Bar Tartine

Last week, I was shocked to discover that Jason Fox was on his way out at Bar Tartine. The restaurant outpost of the always popular Tartine Bakery, Bar Tartine has been one of my favorite restaurants in the city since I got back from Boston. The food was a great representation of what I find to be sophisticated, California cuisine - Chef Fox's creative uses of ingredients really symbolized the type of food that can only be born in San Francisco. I distinctly remember an appetizer of pork belly, calamari, egg salad, and potatoes that was far greater than the sum of its parts (and yes, I realize how delicious each part already is) and easily one of best dishes I ate in 2007. And they served a mean brunch... I'm talking foie gras paninis and smoked salmon benedicts.

So, imagine my surprise when I found out Jason Fox wasn't leaving to pursue some other opportunity. From what I can tell, he's basically been fired (though supposedly in amicable fashion) to make way for Chris Kronner, formerly of Serpentine and Slow Club, who is going to simplify the food. Apparently the owners want to "draw a more direct line" between the restaurant and the bakery... which, if you ask me, sounds like they are trying to lean more in the Maverick/Range direction. Now don't get me wrong - those are two of my favorite restaurants as well - but I really loved what Fox did at Bar Tartine and I thought he brought a unique style to the dining scene. It will be missed, and I hope he quickly lands somewhere else in the city. I haven't been to Serpentine yet, but Chris Kronner is supposedly a great talent. He has big shoes to fill.

Anyway, immediately upon hearing this news, I booked a table to eat Fox's cooking one last time with my mom.

COUNTRY BREAD - from Tartine BakeryFirst things first - Tartine Bakery is indeed quite delicious. At Bar Tartine, they serve fresh country bread from their sibling - a wonderful, chewy, slightly sour loaf. It's my favorite table bread anywhere, period. You can buy it by the round at the bakery.

HEIRLOOM TOMATOES AND CUCUMBERS - purslane, basil, avocado, pecorino, black olive vinaigrette - $13My mom started with this heirloom tomato salad, a beautiful example of my favorite summer ingredient. The creamy avocado did a great job to smooth out this dish. Bar Tartine has always made some of the city's most top-notch salads.

SANTA BARBARA SEA URCHIN - corn custard, chorizo, beech mushrooms, jalapeno, crayfish broth - $15Now here's a prototypical Jason Fox mix of ingredients. One of the most creative Western uni-users I have seen, Fox is an expert at combining unexpected ingredients that just make you say "huh?" while turning them into something amazing. A few beautiful pieces of uni sit on top of a light, slightly sweet custard, which eventually turns into a bit of a stew when stirred together with the other ingredients. The chawanmushi influence is clear, but the Western ingredients make it wholly different. Chorizo gives just the right amount of salt, and the jalapeno kick paired with sea urchin is surprisingly delicious. An absolute winner, and symbolic of what Fox does that separates him from everyone else.

POTATO GNOCCHI - hen of the woods mushrooms, corn, sage, parmesan, black truffle oil - $19My mom got this veggie main dish which has been a mainstay on the menu (with just some seasonal variation on which vegetables go in) for the past couple of years. Fox's gnocchi has a nice fluffy texture with some crisping on the edges. The huge chunks of fresh-cut corn were delicious - I guess I'm too young to know what corn used to taste like.

FOUR STORY HILL FARM HANGER STEAK - cherry tomato bread salad, french beans, rosemary oil - $27I went with the steak, which appears often on the menu in varying preparations and with changing accompaniments. This piece was cooked nicely and had a nice char to it. I'm not sure if they used that country loaf for the bread salad, but it was yum.

CORNMEAL CREPES - blueberries, fresh corn ice cream, lime caramel - $8Bar Tartine has always had strong desserts. I remember it was the first place I tried olive oil ice cream with sea salt, which is now one of my favorite combinations (especially if they give you a piece of that Tartine shortbread). These crepes had a nice mix of flavors going on, particularly the unexpected tang of the caramel. A very nice finish.

And so goes my ode to the Fox era at Bar Tartine. I'm quite sad to write this, as Fox is officially no longer cooking there. I've probably been to Bar Tartine 10-15 times in the past 2 years or so - it was really entrenched into my rotation. I tried to capture some of the essence of the restaurant with my ordering, and I thought the uni dish encompassed Bar Tartine best. Hopefully it gives you an idea of what this place was like. (Admittedly, brandade-stuffed squash blossoms and Pt. Reyes lamb tongue were also tempting.)

I look forward to trying Chris Kronner's food here once he settles in, and hope he brings his own slant to the table. But based on the direction of the restaurant, it's hard not to feel like something is now gone forever with Jason Fox's departure. Best of luck to this place, and I can't wait to find out where Fox ends up. Jason, if you are listening, please don't leave SF!

Burma Superstar

Burma Superstar is, to many, a veritable institution in San Francisco. It's like a Yelp phenomenon from before Yelp ever existed, commanding 2 hour lines along Clement Street at the oddest of hours on the oddest of nights dating back to the last 49ers Superbowl. Given Burma Superstar's popularity, most people are shocked when I tell them that I have never been until this week. Well, call me crazy, but although I obviously love to eat, I do NOT love to wait in line. I'm a big fan of those things called "reservations" and it's hard to find something I'd be willing to wait 2 hours for.

I've heard almost universal raves for this place, with one important exception: my dad. Given his now-flexible lunch schedule, he was able to swing by here a while ago at some strange time, and reported that it was not worth waiting for. I must admit that with my zero experience with Burmese cuisine, I've had a fear deep down that Burma Superstar was like the House of Nanking of Burmese food, with foreigners blindly lining up for some totally average numnums.

That said, dinner was being planned with former co-worker/new supermom Christina, and Burma Superstar was the destination. With the added bonus of catching up with a friend, plus the fact that we were gonna show up really early, I finally felt like it was worth trying the place. Why not? I guess it was due.

VEGETARIAN SAMUSA SOUP - samusas, broken up falafels, lentils, cabbage, and onions - $14 (large serves 4)Lara, one of the biggest Burma Superstar loyalists I have ever met, swears by this soup. And, it turns out, for good reason. Although it basically looks like a bowl of crap (not unlike many delicious Chinese soups out there), this soup is damn tasty, with ton of unidentifiable spices, a hint of curry, and a blend of different textures from the various ingredients. And what's not to like about samusas in a soup? It turns into kind of a big delicious mush. (Also, the Burmese apparently spell it samusa instead of samosa, but they are pretty similar.)

TEA LEAF SALAD - tea leaf, fried garlic, peanuts, sunflower seeds, roasted sesame, lemons, tomatoes, romaine, dried shrimp - $9.50This tea leaf salad is the other signature dish, and comes recommended by just about everyone I know. I'm not sure how the tea leaf is used exactly - but from what I can tell, it's ground up and used as the base for the dressing. Like the soup, this salad's fame is well-deserved. It doesn't look like much, but the variety of textures and flavors really pops in your mouth. It's refreshing and delicious.

BURMESE SAMUSAS - Burmese raviolis hand wrapped and filled with curry spices, potatoes, deep fried and served with house sauce - $9.25Or, in other words, Burmese samosas. Wikipedia doesn't seem to be able to explain the difference. After trying a few chunks of these in the soup, I thought they were worth trying crispy. They're definitely a good version, with a pleasant curry filling and a nice little chili sauce.

GARLIC CHILI SHRIMP - wok tossed shrimp in a garlicky infused oil, topped with toasted garlic - $13.75Food so far had been as advertised, but unfortunately the mains weren't as good as the apps. This garlic chili shrimp had tons of shrimp paste, and tasted more like that than garlic or chili. Heat was nonexistent.

BURMESE STYLE LAMB CURRY - braised until tender with potatoes - $13.75Lamb curry was just decent - nothing spectacular. It had some nice flavor, but lacked heat. Also, the unpictured rice was not made very well, which hurt the curry sauce/rice combination quite a bit. In fact, the sub-par rice probably weakened all of the mains pretty significantly.

 WOK TOSSED BROCCOLI - stir fried broccoli with wine and garlic, topped with fried onions - $8.50On the flip side, this simple stir fried broccoli was quite good. The broccoli was crisp but tender, and the onions on top were a nice touch.

NAN PIA DOK - flat flour noodles with a chicken coconut curry sauce, string beans, split yellow pea, cabbage, and chilis - $9.75We finished off with this interesting-sounding noodle dish. Turns out it was just a long way of saying fettuccine, but it was still quite tasty. The noodles weren't overcooked, and the curry sauce was an unusual pairing for me. Still it would have been a lot better if they used dark meat, and doubled or tripled up the chili...

So I must say, the meal was decent, and we only had to wait about 20 minutes. Still, I have trouble seeing the ultra-hype. The soup and salad are no doubt worth returning for, and if I came back again I'd probably order more of those and center the meal around them. But, I don't plan to ever wait 2 hours for it - I'd rather drive down the street a minute and get some noodles at King of Thai or some roti at Singapore Malaysian. No wait.

Woodhouse Fish Co.

One of the things I miss about Boston is a good lobster roll. My favorite, which unfortunately has not been captured here on Arthur Hungry, is at Neptune Oyster in the North End. It's hard to beat the simplicity of lobster on toasted, buttery bread. Woodhouse Fish Co. has long been reputed to serve one of the best lobster rolls in town, distance from New England be damned. Unfortunately, I've never made it to the original branch on Market, but they recently opened a new outpost on Fillmore, across from SPQR... right in the middle of one of my most frequent dining hoods. I was happy to check it out.

OYSTERS - Marin Miyagis and Blue Points - $2 eachWe started off with a few oysters. The Chronicle just ran an article about oysters being fine in months not ending in R - and I'm inclined to agree, as these were just fine on this pleasant August evening. The smaller Miyagis had a deeper sea flavor, but I actually preferred the clean, crisp feel of the Blue Points.

FRIED WHOLE-BELLY IPSWICH CLAMS - $15.50Another mainstay of New England seafood, fried clams are a bit rarer here in the West. These had nice, full bellies, and a lighter batter than the photos show. Served with a delicious dill-based tartar sauce... didn't touch the red stuff as I'm sure you could have guessed.

CLAM CHOWDER - creamy New England - $4.95Of course, we had to give the clam chowder a try. They offer New England, Manhattan, and "Hartford" styles - I just noticed the Hartford one while looking at the menu now, and wish I had noticed it while I was there. The New England was pretty standard - a solid traditional version, but not quite as interesting or delicious as the clam chowder at Hog Island or the seafood chowder at Bar Crudo.

SPLIT-TOP MAINE LOBSTER ROLL - $17The main event was again, solid and traditional. The split-style bun was well toasted and sufficiently buttered; the lobster serving was generous. Temperature was spot-on - cold but not icy refrigerator cold. Still, I must say I prefer the hot lobster with butter version at Neptune, rather than the more common lobster mayo salad seen here... but I guess it's a little much to ask for style diversity in lobster rolls in California. Both the fries and the cole slaw were very good, and worth a mention.

FISH & CHIPS - Anchor Steam beer-battered wild Alaskan cod with fries - $9.50 (2 pieces)We finished off with a small order of fish and chips. I've always found that beer-battered food simply isn't particularly photogenic, and my photographic non-skills probably don't help. Not that looks matter... I just care about personality! :) These fish and chips had a nice crunchy batter that gave way to very moist and tender fish inside (plus you won't find any Anchor Steam batters in Boston). They were a touch greasy, though.

The meal met my expectations - good, but not great. The food is certainly tasty, and will satisfy the occasional NE seafood craving I get. Next time, I'll try the Dungeness crab melt, which looked delicious when I saw it flying by to another table.

Maverick

Maverick is a pretty interesting story. Chef/owner Scott Youkilis is a lifelong chef who spent two years at Sociale before opening Maverick. It's not the most exciting pedigree, I have to admit; however, he is also the brother of Kevin Youkilis, the Boston Red Sox All-Star, noted for his extremely efficient on-base percentage and nicknamed the "Greek God of Walks" in the revolutionary book Moneyball. To my knowledge, Baseball Youkilis has no official involvement, and based on the fact that Maverick bears none of the trademark athlete-turn-restaurateur pitfalls, I can only conclude that Chef Youkilis has built this neighborhood spot just like any other successful joint, and the athlete connection is nothing more than a fun fact. The only thing they collaborate on is the signature "Youk's Hot Sauce" - a wonderful, peppery concotion served during brunch and sold by the bottle.

Named after an 1800s Texas cattle rancher, Maverick bills itself as a contemporary American eatery, with some visible influences from the South (as well as New Orleans in particular). The restaurant is tiny - it has maybe 10 tables in total. And for some reason, despite the fact that they serve an absolutely awesome andouille sausage benedict with crawfish hollandaise, the place is never so full that it becomes a hassle to eat there. It's become a go-to brunch spot for me that takes reservations and consistently delivers. But it's not a one-trick pony either; Maverick serves up some delicious grub at dinnertime as well.

BROKEN ARROW RANCH ANTELOPE TARTARE - ancho chili sauce, purslane, olive oil soaked toast - $13The tartare is a mainstay on the dinner menu, and for good reason. Antelope is lean, with a milder flavor than you might expect (not much gameyness, and not too far off from beef). It's quite well-suited for tartare, and Youkilis chops it to a nice size. The ancho chili differentiates it from the typical tartare by leaving a very delicate but noticeable heat in the back of your mouth.

FRIED GREEN TOMATOES - cornmeal crusted tomatoes, mizuna, heirloom tomatoes, buttermilk dressing - $10These tomatoes have a very nice, crunchy, and greaseless crust. The creamy buttermilk is a good complement to the acidity of the tomatoes. I must admit though that while I've found that I tend to order fried green tomatoes whenever I see them, they never seem to be as delicious as they looked in the 1991 movie named after them. That's not a knock on Maverick as much as it is a statement on the power of imagination when it comes to taste, I guess.

PAN ROASTED LIBERTY DUCK BREAST - Crookneck squash custard, squash blossom and russian kale salad, roasted figs, duck jus - $27I thought about ordering the fried chicken - Maverick serves one of the best in town. But I figured I'd be back to take photos of it another time, and this duck was really calling my name. I'm glad I strayed. The breast was perfectly cooked, and had a crackly but not fatty layer of skin. The figs, a pairing I usually find overly sweet, were mild and added just the right balance of flavor to the jus. The cheesy squash custard was a perfect substitute for mozzarella as a partner to the squash blossoms. This dish was a winner.

BLUEBERRY BREAD PUDDING - creme fraiche ice cream, blueberry coulis - $8Dessert was a totally pleasant surprise. I can't describe this any better than "blueberry muffin on steroids." Just imagine the best warm blueberry muffin ever, and put some well-made ice cream on top of it.

I really owe it to you guys to come back for brunch some time and take some photos. For now, these dinner pics will have to do. I really feel Maverick is one of the more overlooked restaurants in the city. To me, it's also one of the most convenient - it's always pretty close to full, with a lively atmosphere, and a reliable number of patrons to maintain steady business. But it's also never hard to get in; a few days of planning and it's easy to get a table, and often you can make a reservation the same day at decent times. The menu changes frequently enough to make it a regular member of the restaurant rotation. It's what a good restaurant should be: simple, consistent, and reasonable.

Bushi-Tei Bistro

My cousin Kim and his wife Adrienne (proud Kiwis and new residents of the South Bay) were up in the city tonight to catch a show at the Fillmore. Gomez, an English band, apparently has a hit single called The Theme Song from Grey's Anatomy or something close to that. (Note: Kim was a fan way before they sold out.) Anyway, it wasn't my cup of espresso, but I was still happy to join for a pre-show dinner nearby. We decided on Bushi-Tei Bistro, one of my dad's new Japantown staples.

Bushi-Tei Bistro is a casual offshoot of the fancier Bushi-Tei 2 blocks away. Opened earlier this year, the bistro offers a taste of chef Seiji Wakabayashi's French-Japanese-Californian fusion style in a cheaper, more accessible package. The main Bushi-Tei has received some acclaim, including 3 stars and a Rising Star Chef award for Chef Waka from the Chronicle. The bistro has gotten a less enthusiastic welcome (at least based on some mediocre Yelp reviews, and the relatively empty dining room). Still, I find it to be a reliable Japantown option that offers legitimate cooking at a pretty low price.

The menu is split into some appetizers, soups, salads, pastas, and entrees (with pictures!). You enter from just inside the mall, near Juban and Suzu. I guess the location is best described as "under" Over the Bridge (the restaurant). As this was a family affair, we naturally decided to share everything.

CRAB SALAD - crab meat tossed with shungiku "chrysanthemum leaf" -$9.80First up was this crab salad. The chrysanthemum leaf is popular in HK cuisine, but is basically always served cooked. Here, it lends a refreshing, slightly herbal tone. The amount of crab meat was generous.

CUCUMBER & GRAVLAX - home cured herb marinated salmon, cucumber spaghetti, crème fraiche - $9.80Here, crisp strings of cucumber are wrapped in cured salmon. The fish has a light flavor with a very pleasant, smooth texture.

GYOZA - pan-fried vegetable potstickers, tomatillo sauce - $9.80I swear, some things you will only find in San Francisco. I've never seen tomatillos paired with anything Asian at all, and it's used quite effectively here in place of a typical gyoza sauce. The flavor isn't too far off from the green tomatillo salsa you'd find in your local tacqueria, and the combination with gyoza is an interesting twist.

COCONUT OYSTER - fried coconut oysters, corn relish, curried tartar - $9.80Probably the best photo of the bunch, but the least succesful dish. While the oysters were nicely crisp, they were slightly dry on the inside. I don't recall any significant flavor contribution from the corn relish or the curry, and I would have had no idea that coconut was even involved.

SHRIMP CAKE - choppped shrimp & crispy vegetables, citrus beurre-blanc sauce - $9.80This one is a little tough to peg. I'd say it's best described as a cross between a Thai fish cake (tod mun) and a typical Western crab cake. The result is pretty tasty - it has the texture of tod mun with a shrimpy, buttery flavor.

CAPELLI D'ANGELO - angel hair pasta with tomato, garlic, basil, and extra virgin olive oil - $10.80No fusion involved here, but Bushi-Tei Bistro turns out some pretty good pastas. This capellini pomodoro has perfectly al dente noodles, a nice tomato flavor, and zero sogginess.

FETTUCCINE - flat thick pasta with mushroom, bolognaise chicken, and arugula - $10.80A tomato-less twist on your typical bolognese, this has Jap-Ital written all over it. Moist, flavorful ground chicken complements the fettuccine nicely. Kim says he liked this 15 times more than the other pasta. (To be fair, the rest of us thought both were good and pretty incomparable.)

SCALLOP - sauteed hotate scallops with kiwi vinaigrette - $16.80This one was a bit of a letdown. These "scallop scallops" were well-cooked and tender, but nothing spectacular. The kiwi vinaigrette gave it a bit of tang which I did not enjoy much. I've realized I'm not much of a kiwi fan in general (the fruit, not the people).

TONKATSU - breaded kurobuta pork cutlet - $16.80Bushi-Tei is very strong with pork items, and this tonkatsu is a perfect example. The meat is moist and very tender, and has just the right amount of fat. At the same time, the breading is fairly light and grease-free. They also have a sauteed pork loin dish that is very good.

Not pictured are a pair of desserts that were better than expected - a substantial, not-too-sweet cheesecake creatively paired with some sorbet and chantilly cream, and a nice crisp apple tart.

Bushi-Tei is also a great lunch option, as they offer a bunch of good rice and noodle dishes, including a great katsu-don and supposedly pretty good ramen. It is definitely on my short list of places to grab a bite if I need something in Japantown. Hopefully, business will pick up - the place has a decent number of seats, and I've never seen it more than 30% full. The food is solid, and let's be honest... the options in Japantown are pretty limited if you're not throwing down for Ino, Kappa, or Kiss.

Saison

Last Sunday, my dad and I tried out Saison, a new spot in the Mission. It's an intriguing operation. Headed up by chef Joshua Skenes (of Carte 415 and formerly of Chez TJ) together with Markris Wine Group (sommelier Mark Bright of Local and formerly Michael Mina, plus business partner Kristopher Ezqueda), Saison is a once week event, and not exactly your typical restaurant. Every Sunday night, they borrow the kitchen, back room, and garden of Stable Cafe, and serve 2 rounds of dinner. They can seat about 25 per round, and every week has a 4-course set menu for $60, with an optional $30 wine pairing.

The idea is for Skenes to experiment a little with the freshest, local ingredients, and serve extremely high-quality food in a casual atmosphere. The price is kept low because they specifically accommodate a certain number of people each Sunday, and everyone prepays using Paypal. I assume they close off the reservations by Friday, and spend Friday/Saturday shopping for ingredients to craft the unique menu for that week. It's an interesting concept to say the least, and right up my alley.

I'd never been to Stable Cafe before, but it's a neat little place out in the Mission. Along the side, there's an open gravel walkway that leads to their back yard, where some dining tables are set up. It's a very serene setting given the location, and it almost feels like a slice of European countryside in the middle of the city. Upon arrival, there is a table set up with some bubbly for everyone to sip on while they're setting up. Shortly after, you are given a mini-tour of the kitchen which has an entrance on the side, and then led to the back dining room which also connects around to the yard. The dining room is great, and has the ambiance of a country townhouse with a few modern touches. It's definitely a very casual place (I along with everyone else was wearing jeans). I was digging the vibe right from the get-go. And when the food started coming, things got even better.

RAW LOBSTER - caviar, celery, avocadoWe started off with this beautiful amuse of raw lobster. It was pretty generous for an amuse - it took me more than one bite, and clearly had some careful thought put into it. The lobster was bouncy and refreshing, while the caviar's saltiness was balanced by the fresh taste of the celery and avocado. This was paired with the Allimant-Laugner Cremant d'Alsace Rosé, the bubbly we were served outside. It was an excellent, dry rosé I've never heard of (and available for purchase online at $18 a bottle, a total steal).  A good start.

HEIRLOOM MELONS - Vadouvan spices, Bellwether ricotta, mixed herbsThe first time I encountered Vadouvan was at Ubuntu in Napa, in their signature cast-iron cauliflower dish. It's an Indian spice mixture that I expect we'll start to see more of in the near future. Here, the spices played off beautifully against the sweetness of the melons (a pristine combination of what seemed to be honeydew and watermelon types) and the creaminess of the ricotta. This was very creative and worked well - melons with kick, who'd have thought? And as you can see, the presentation and colors were beautiful. Paired with a Toni Jost Riesling Kabinett.

LOCAL HALIBUT - Pimentón de La Vera, shellfish bouillonNext up was a seafood course. The halibut was tasty and delicate, and yet had a beautifully crispy piece of skin. Chef Skenes said this was achieved by slow-roasting one large piece and breaking it down after. In any case, delicious. Pimentón de La Vera is a smoked Spanish paprika, which lended a little bite, but it was the shellfish bouillon that made this dish. The intensely flavorful broth mixed well together with the halibut and the lobster. This came with a buttery Domaine Marius Delarche white. Delicious.

SUCKLING GOAT - cracked hominy, white corn milk, natural jus, thyme, arugula with honey & lemonThe main course was a suckling goat - cooked quite rare, as you can see. I was expecting a strong gamey flavor, but it turned out to be much milder than I thought it would be. The corn foam stuff lended a nice counterpoint to the salt of the jus, and the hominy was a nice hearty grain to complement. A good dish overall, but not as good as the previous two. This one came with a Broc Cellars Syrah, which I thought was fine. My dad complained that it lacked tail, as he does frequently of non-French big reds...

LUCERO FARM STRAWBERRIES - muscat sabayon, hibiscus granitéDessert was a simple prepartion of fresh, sweet strawberries with a rich sabayon and some granit é. There's also a bit of shortbread in there. A great mix of flavors - almost like a fancy strawberry shortcake. Mark also brought out a magnum of Riesling that he shared with everyone in the room - a nice, not overly-sweet version that went very well with this. Shoulda taken down the name...

MIGNARDISES - chocolate espresso and lavendar salt cookiesThey finished us off with some cookies. Big contrast in flavor between the chocolateyness and the saltiness. I liked the chocolate ones a little better, as they had a nicer, chewy texture.

All in all, it was a great meal, and an absolute steal for the price. I've already made a reservation to return - I'll be taking Keith and Bart to congratulate them on finishing the Bar exam. I love the concept and the quality. I love that they are serving top-shelf food with none of the fuss, as I like to eat good food on more than just special occasions. And of course, I love that they are passing down some of the cost savings! I can't imagine they are making much money, but after speaking to everyone involved, it sounds like this project is more an outlet for them to be creative than a big moneymaking venture. That's good and bad: while I am positive that Saison is going to pick up a lot of steam, I'm also sure that the demand for this place will quickly surpass the supply, especially given their once a week model. Get there while you still can.