Maverick is a pretty interesting story. Chef/owner Scott Youkilis is a lifelong chef who spent two years at Sociale before opening Maverick. It's not the most exciting pedigree, I have to admit; however, he is also the brother of Kevin Youkilis, the Boston Red Sox All-Star, noted for his extremely efficient on-base percentage and nicknamed the "Greek God of Walks" in the revolutionary book Moneyball. To my knowledge, Baseball Youkilis has no official involvement, and based on the fact that Maverick bears none of the trademark athlete-turn-restaurateur pitfalls, I can only conclude that Chef Youkilis has built this neighborhood spot just like any other successful joint, and the athlete connection is nothing more than a fun fact. The only thing they collaborate on is the signature "Youk's Hot Sauce" - a wonderful, peppery concotion served during brunch and sold by the bottle.
Named after an 1800s Texas cattle rancher, Maverick bills itself as a contemporary American eatery, with some visible influences from the South (as well as New Orleans in particular). The restaurant is tiny - it has maybe 10 tables in total. And for some reason, despite the fact that they serve an absolutely awesome andouille sausage benedict with crawfish hollandaise, the place is never so full that it becomes a hassle to eat there. It's become a go-to brunch spot for me that takes reservations and consistently delivers. But it's not a one-trick pony either; Maverick serves up some delicious grub at dinnertime as well.
BROKEN ARROW RANCH ANTELOPE TARTARE - ancho chili sauce, purslane, olive oil soaked toast - $13The tartare is a mainstay on the dinner menu, and for good reason. Antelope is lean, with a milder flavor than you might expect (not much gameyness, and not too far off from beef). It's quite well-suited for tartare, and Youkilis chops it to a nice size. The ancho chili differentiates it from the typical tartare by leaving a very delicate but noticeable heat in the back of your mouth.
FRIED GREEN TOMATOES - cornmeal crusted tomatoes, mizuna, heirloom tomatoes, buttermilk dressing - $10These tomatoes have a very nice, crunchy, and greaseless crust. The creamy buttermilk is a good complement to the acidity of the tomatoes. I must admit though that while I've found that I tend to order fried green tomatoes whenever I see them, they never seem to be as delicious as they looked in the 1991 movie named after them. That's not a knock on Maverick as much as it is a statement on the power of imagination when it comes to taste, I guess.
PAN ROASTED LIBERTY DUCK BREAST - Crookneck squash custard, squash blossom and russian kale salad, roasted figs, duck jus - $27I thought about ordering the fried chicken - Maverick serves one of the best in town. But I figured I'd be back to take photos of it another time, and this duck was really calling my name. I'm glad I strayed. The breast was perfectly cooked, and had a crackly but not fatty layer of skin. The figs, a pairing I usually find overly sweet, were mild and added just the right balance of flavor to the jus. The cheesy squash custard was a perfect substitute for mozzarella as a partner to the squash blossoms. This dish was a winner.
BLUEBERRY BREAD PUDDING - creme fraiche ice cream, blueberry coulis - $8Dessert was a totally pleasant surprise. I can't describe this any better than "blueberry muffin on steroids." Just imagine the best warm blueberry muffin ever, and put some well-made ice cream on top of it.
I really owe it to you guys to come back for brunch some time and take some photos. For now, these dinner pics will have to do. I really feel Maverick is one of the more overlooked restaurants in the city. To me, it's also one of the most convenient - it's always pretty close to full, with a lively atmosphere, and a reliable number of patrons to maintain steady business. But it's also never hard to get in; a few days of planning and it's easy to get a table, and often you can make a reservation the same day at decent times. The menu changes frequently enough to make it a regular member of the restaurant rotation. It's what a good restaurant should be: simple, consistent, and reasonable.